ARP makes a longer bolt and its resuable. its like 28 bucks. to soem its not worht hte money but was for me.
i would never apply heat to the crank snout but this is me. Longer bolt does help get the pulley on. Some have stripped the first couple threads out of crank by trying to pull it on with the stock bolt.
I used a GM tool kit once for the GenIII motors and it came with a long bolt tool to get the pulley seated.
2002 Lightning - GT headed 5.5Litre w/ Twin 7665s
2002 Silverado - 427Lsx w/ Twin gt4202s
2010 Silverado crewcab Z71 - 5.3litre w/ procharger
2000 Wrangler - 5.3litre with some stance
2014 Xsport- 3.5 Eco boost
412 Motorsports
it ain't that I'm too big to listen to the rumors, It's just that I'm too damn big to pay attention to 'em..That's the difference
you heat the pulley, not the snout.Originally Posted by Quik
so you want to apply heat to an object that has rubber in it? just so you can get it to go on? theres other ways of doing this. Also heres is greg's quote. he clearly says snout
either way you wont catch me applying heat to my setup. 28 bucks longer bolt and have no issues at allInstaller? Propane torch to heat the snout up works fine to get it started on and then wrench it the rest of the way on with the old bolt. Torque angle can be guestimated if you know that 360 degrees is a full turn and 180 degrees is one-half.Hopefully he can figure that out. Follow the GM torque procedure for tightening the bolt.
2002 Lightning - GT headed 5.5Litre w/ Twin 7665s
2002 Silverado - 427Lsx w/ Twin gt4202s
2010 Silverado crewcab Z71 - 5.3litre w/ procharger
2000 Wrangler - 5.3litre with some stance
2014 Xsport- 3.5 Eco boost
412 Motorsports
it ain't that I'm too big to listen to the rumors, It's just that I'm too damn big to pay attention to 'em..That's the difference
I'm well away of the ways to get it done, I was just saying that you would generally heat the pulley and then it slides over the snout easier.
I've always used the longer bolt method.
FWIW, you apply heat to your pulley every time you start the engine. You're not putting 1000* of heat to it, just 300-400. The rubber holds up just fine and if you do it quickly the crank cools it down quickly by contact.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
maybe what happend to Moze's pulley then, too much heat applied. just easier to buy the ARP bolt
2k worht of crank
250 worth of pulley
or 28bucks for a bolt
2002 Lightning - GT headed 5.5Litre w/ Twin 7665s
2002 Silverado - 427Lsx w/ Twin gt4202s
2010 Silverado crewcab Z71 - 5.3litre w/ procharger
2000 Wrangler - 5.3litre with some stance
2014 Xsport- 3.5 Eco boost
412 Motorsports
it ain't that I'm too big to listen to the rumors, It's just that I'm too damn big to pay attention to 'em..That's the difference
He lost the snap ring off the end of his somehow. I have the same pulley with no issue.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
i found that using the longer bolt was much easier. you can find a longer crank bolt at the dealership. just ask for a z06 bolt it like a inch longer, much cheeper then ARP bolt.
What If U Reuse The Old Bolt With Thread Lock??
If Not How The Heck Do U Tighten The Bolt W/o The Accesories Turning?
The c6 zo6 bolt or the c5???
2004 Gmc VHO (LQ9), AEM cai, perma cool e-fans, aero turbine 3535,obx lt's,undedrive pulley w/overdrive alt pulley, lingenfelter 160 t-stat, zippy tune, taylor 10.4mm wires, tb bypass, Transgo HD-2 c, corvette servos, sonnax accumulator piston's,2600 stall,30,000 trans cooler lowered 1.5"/2", boss 313 22's on 285/45's, rollpan,shaved tailgate w/ss spoiler, painted interior, 2 solo l7 12's,custom fiberglass box,Pioneer F-900 Navi,SSS gauges,billet shiter and pedals,hid's (low's and fogs).
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