Do the ChevyLee fuel pressure regulator check. Disconnect the vacuum line running to the FPR from the intake manifold and insert the vacuum line into a clear bottle then start the truck. Let it idle for about 5 minutes and see if you get any fuel in the catch bottle. If yes, replace the FPR.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I'll try the FPR check and see. Also just thought of this about a year ago I had three manifold bolts broke so I put on shorty headers. The mechanic put a different oil dipstick tube on. Noticed after I got it back the oil level was low so I topped it off. Could I have too much oil in the crankcase and it be burning the excess.
99 2500 ECSB 6L/4L80E/KandN Intake/Gibson Shorties/Gutted Cats/B&B Exhaust/265-75-16 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Its a possiblity. Check the easy things first...plugs, FPR, intake cleaning, oil level. If those aren't the gremlin, do the valve seals.
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
Originally Posted by ff_jeff
Not stupid, you just said to remove the valve, and i wanted to know how you would do that with the head bolted down is all!!!JACKASS--he is talking about changing the VALVE SEALS. NOT THE VALVE...douche nozzle. It would GREATLY benefit you to read the ENTIRE post before saying something stupid.
Who is stupid now???
Love ya Jeff!
Oh. Ok. You're right--my mistake. I typed that on accident.
Dude, you know that I didn't mean for him to remove the valve. Why would you remove a valve if you were only gunna replace the valve seal?
In conjunction with that, make sure to either charge the cylinder with air or turn the piston below the valves you are working on to TDC...if not, say bye-bye to the valve--and you will have to remove the head to put it back in...
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
Did the FPR check and no gas in the jar so it still working. Stuck a rag in the tb and brought out a mix of soot and oil but wasn't as dirty as I thought it was going to be. Might have to take the plunge and take it off and clean it to be safe. Would a compression check tell how much blow by I was getting?
99 2500 ECSB 6L/4L80E/KandN Intake/Gibson Shorties/Gutted Cats/B&B Exhaust/265-75-16 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Yes, somewhat. Do a leak-down test to see the pressure loss for each cylinder. That will tell you where your problem is...
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
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