Hey guys I have a question. My brakes finally started squeaking and I have to replace them. Here's my question, should I buy new rotors or re-surface my stock ones? I have 102,xxx miles on my original brakes and rotors.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I dont know whats better gettin laid or gettin paid, I just know that when I'm gettin one the other is gettin away
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i think it depends. how many times you have had them turned. at that many miles id prolly buy new ones. if i had the money.
buy new ones and dont worry about it for 102,000 miles
New ones man! these rotors are junk when they are good, the metal they use these days sucks!!
07 SILVERADO CLASSIC 2500 HD 4x4 CREW CAB LT3 DURAMAX LBZ/ALLISON 6 SPEED 5'' MBRP Turbo back exhaust 6'' TIP /NO CAT- NO MUFF/ AFE Intake/ EDGE HOT JUICE /MERCHANT AUTO STG III Built Allison/P I ConverterTTS Twin Lift Pumps. Tierod sleeves/Cognito braces.17x9 Moto metals_______ Old Truck ,04 Z-71/Turbocharged,/cam/stall/Zippy Built TRANS/Nelson Tuned------
With 22's you NEED some Bigger & Better brakes. You will not believe how much better the larger brakes will do you
go new, get bigger if you can afford it. Get drilled and slotted if you can't afford a whole new system.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
If they've never been turned before I'd have em checked and turned if possible. Unless you got assloads of money laying around or your doing some road racing why bother with the bigger brakes? I have the heaviest 20's known to man and I have no trouble stopping.
[1/8 mile E.T. - 8.23 @ 82.86 mph w/1.82 60'] '98swb,4/6drop,20"RozziDeeps on 275/40ToyoProxes '98LS1/4L60E,TRCheaTR cam,Ported TB,Billet MAF ends,MSD8.5 superconductor wires,S&P midlengths,!EGR,!cats,2 1/2" true duals w/X-pipe,Dynomax Ultraflows,TCI 3000,billet servo,TCI deep aluminum pan,3.73's w/Auburn posi; Eclipse CD, Rockford 6 1/2's, Memphis 12's, Punch 200 ix, Punch 500x
Go to summit and by the brake kit that includes the 3 or 4 piston calipers, drilled and slotted rotors, pads and stainless steel braided brake lines.
Or you can do what i did and go down to advance auto parts and buy the bendix drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from them. Rotors costs me 190 total and the life time ceramic pads costs 30.
But since you are running 22" then i would highly recommend buying the baer brake kit which included bigger rotors and better calipers along with the stainless steel braided brake lines. Last time i checked you could pick this up for about $1500. It will dramaticly reduce your braking distance.
2004 EXC Silverado 6.2L
Mods:
6.2L L92, Ported and Polished stage 3 heads, 95mm Throttle Body, 100mm MAF, NA, Pacesetter LT Headers, Magnaflow X-Pipe Muffler, Electric Fans, 160* thermostat, 2" Drop Shackles, Hellwig Sway Bars Front and Rear, Monroe Reflex Shocks, NGK Spark Plugs, AMW Oil Catch Can, 17"x10" wheels on Kuhmo Tires.
Are you guys trying to throw yourselves through the winshield or what?!
[1/8 mile E.T. - 8.23 @ 82.86 mph w/1.82 60'] '98swb,4/6drop,20"RozziDeeps on 275/40ToyoProxes '98LS1/4L60E,TRCheaTR cam,Ported TB,Billet MAF ends,MSD8.5 superconductor wires,S&P midlengths,!EGR,!cats,2 1/2" true duals w/X-pipe,Dynomax Ultraflows,TCI 3000,billet servo,TCI deep aluminum pan,3.73's w/Auburn posi; Eclipse CD, Rockford 6 1/2's, Memphis 12's, Punch 200 ix, Punch 500x
With all these new cars on the roads today with anti-lock brakes that will stop on a dime, it gets kind of nerve racking driving among them in a truck with only half the brakes they have. One good thing is that if you can't stop fast enough you get to take out two or three cars in front of you as your heavy truck plows their rice boxes further up the road.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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