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Thread: 5.3 rebuild questions

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  1. #1

    5.3 rebuild questions

    i got an 05 5.3 for 100.00 (complete motor). im rebuilding it at the moment. i have been pricing main/rod bearings and will most likely get the parts via my machine shop. the question i have is that i was on autozone.com and priced a remanufactured crank kit (includes main and rod bearings) for 254.99! the main bearings are 118.99 and the rod bearings are 34.99. i'd still need to have the cranks polished at the machine shop.
    would just buying a remanufactured crank kit w/ bearings be the smartest thing to do?

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-jn1e9Z8znet

    if using the original oem crank is a better option i'd do it. the cost seems 50-100 more using the stock oem crank, but using the remaned kit would alleviate the need for the machine work on the oem crank...

    decisions decisions... anyone have any thoughts?
    1990 mazda b2200 SFBD one off frame, 6.0 lq4/6l80e, 2002 narrowed gmfs rearend w/ discs, 2003 gm 2" drop spindles w/ stock gmfs hubs/rotors/calipers, airbagged w/ ss re7's 22x8" front, 22x10" rear


    http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...renderinf1.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Take the crank to a machine shop and have it inspected, most likely all it will need is polished if it doesn't have gouges on the journals. They have many bearing sizes available so be sure you use plastigage when assembling the crank, no oil during the plastigage setup stage. You can often get your machinist to pick up the bearings for you after they machine the crank. The good thing is that the rod bearings are the good old tried and true SBC bearings though I'd pay extra for a coated set. I've got to where I like the King crankshaft bearings, good quality and decent pricing though they ones I bought aren't coated.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  3. #3
    when i disassembled the motor... i looked at the main crank bearings as well as the rod bearings. needless to say the bearings were all wiped out. some had dirt in them...so new bearings are a must... just wondering about the crank. there are some scratches in the journals so it will spend some time at the machine shop. shoul i just leave the crank in the block when i drop it off?
    1990 mazda b2200 SFBD one off frame, 6.0 lq4/6l80e, 2002 narrowed gmfs rearend w/ discs, 2003 gm 2" drop spindles w/ stock gmfs hubs/rotors/calipers, airbagged w/ ss re7's 22x8" front, 22x10" rear


    http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...renderinf1.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    absolutely.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  5. #5
    thank man.
    1990 mazda b2200 SFBD one off frame, 6.0 lq4/6l80e, 2002 narrowed gmfs rearend w/ discs, 2003 gm 2" drop spindles w/ stock gmfs hubs/rotors/calipers, airbagged w/ ss re7's 22x8" front, 22x10" rear


    http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...renderinf1.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    houston tx
    Posts
    195
    i have a complete set of 5.3 flat top pistons and newer style rods for sale for your build the pistons come with new piston rings if youre interested

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    147
    Run Clevite 77 bearings. You can get rod and mains for around $115 bucks. Plus they are much better grade than the Auto Zone china stuff. Pm me if ya want more info or any other suggestions.
    '04 Silverado RCSB with a crank bolt.

    You know your truck sounds good when cops ask you to get on it.

    Idle Clip

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