So is it better to run external cooler plus the built in cooler? Or just external cooler? I have a swaped 4l80e. I was told that the built in cooler becomes a restriction. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.
So is it better to run external cooler plus the built in cooler? Or just external cooler? I have a swaped 4l80e. I was told that the built in cooler becomes a restriction. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.
i ran both coolers for alomost 3 years with the 80e, and now that ive went to awd and running a 65e, im running both coolers still and the temp sits at about 150, if i remember right the bugatti veyron has 10 trans coolers located thruout the chassis, i think whoever told you that maybe talking out of thier ass.Originally Posted by Janke
THEY CALL ME G.
AZRAEL
2017 RZR 1000 2 SEATER
2023 RZR 1000 XP 4
2008 LTZ DURAMAX 3500
2023 300S 5.7
2023 BUICK ENCORE[/B]
The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.
I run just a external. I was told there is a chance of the radiator cracking and leaking into the trans cooler side and getting antifreeze in the trans fluid.
I run two external coolers in line, id go with the external for sure.
1951 3100
1984 C10
I run one big cooler inline. Not through the RAD
1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4
Ok I just moved my external cooler to a better location so it can pickup more air. Im going to see what that does for trans temps. Next step will be one big external cooler which I have no room for with my big 4" FMIC.
I prefer to run through the radiator then to an external cooler. The radiator does a quick cool down and then the external further cools the fluid. I would bet money that a higher percentage of external coolers have failed than internal ones since the cooling fins are subjected to flying debris at all times the vehicle is moving.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
same method i use. FWIW ive burned up one trans and it was stock, never ruined another one.
THEY CALL ME G.
AZRAEL
2017 RZR 1000 2 SEATER
2023 RZR 1000 XP 4
2008 LTZ DURAMAX 3500
2023 300S 5.7
2023 BUICK ENCORE[/B]
The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.
That's the way it is setup now but the external wasn't in a spot with good airflow. Im hoping the extra air will help.
the internal coil in the rads is a 3/8" Thetight coils in the ran do become tight. Some rads have a actual heat exchanger plate style trns cooler in the rad.
Honestly in the warm enviroments you american are in the trans cooler idea is horible. Your pushing trans fluid thru it at XX temp and if its lower thn 180-190 you are warming it up. Thenit comes out at 180-190 and goes back to the trans or if you have a frn mount it will lower it down 30-40 degs. Ive removed the rad cooler completely in a bunch of cars and the trans temps drop pretty noticable. Just let your trans warm up in cold weather before beating on it. Clutch packs and bands dont like suppr hot fluids. Trans fluid is like a coolant remeber.
My dads LLY we eliminate the trans cooler in the rad and drop 20-30 righ off the bat.
All my auto cars and trucks dont run the oem rad cooler. I think its fine for your grocery getter but thats it.
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