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Thread: Cam install on ls1howto

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, Ks
    Posts
    84

    Cam install on ls1howto

    Getting ready to do a cam/spring install after I put in my torque converter, shift kit, and vette servo and was wondering if anyone has used the "cam/spring install" guide on ls1howto.com to guide them? Should be the same procedures on our 5.3 trucks minus a few things here and there right? I've never done a cam/spring install before and it seems like a GREAT write up. Is there one more specific to LSx trucks then the one for LS1 F-body's?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sherman, Texas
    Posts
    183
    I used this howto for my swap and it was spot on except alot easier on trucks

    02 Fully forged Iron Ls1 233/239 595/603 112lsa,
    milled, ported& polished heads,
    K&N CAI, shorty headers,
    off road x-pipe, Pypes M-80s dumped,
    TCI 3600 stall ,TransGo shift kit,
    True Trac w/3:73s, 4/6 drop,
    and a Fast LSXRT 102

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Southern WI
    Posts
    460
    +1 on the write up, I used it to do my swap and it is super easy.
    Mike
    2000 RCSB
    '05 LS2 11.5:1 C.R. l K&N l LT's l Torquer V2 l PAC Springs l Manley 7.4's l 92mm TB l LS7 Lifters l Circle-D 3200 l P&P TB l ARP Rod Bolts l LS1 E-fans l Nelson 93 Tune l Brand-X 100 Shot l Walbro 255 l Duals w/ X and Magnapacks l Vette Servo l Transgo S.K. l 30K Cooler l Detroit Tru-Trac l Motive 4.30's l ARP Cap Studs l TA Girdle

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    8,031
    valve springs just swap rite?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, Ks
    Posts
    84
    Awesome, I was thinking it was a good source. Thanks all

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    Yeah, good source. But everything on the truck is easier. Like not having to remove the grille, core support, etc. Its so dang easy compared to an F-body...especially the springs.

    Oh, one other thing--no need to get the LS1 oil galley rods. Just get some 5/16" wooden dowels from Home Depot. Make sure to sand them down and dump oil on them before they go in...

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    Quote Originally Posted by Razgriz1 View Post
    I used this howto for my swap and it was spot on except alot easier on trucks
    What else did you use?

    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    no need to get the LS1 oil galley rods [or] 5/16" wooden dowels from Home Depot.
    Fixed.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, Ks
    Posts
    84
    I got the 5/16 wooden dowels. Why is there no need for them?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Crowder, OK
    Posts
    8,005
    There's a way to do it with air I believe.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
    2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
    2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
    2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    The lifter carriers have a slight amount of friction on the lifters and will hold them up without falling, 99% of the time. The dowels are just insurance for that 1%.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

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