need help with guages 94 suburban 454 to 6.0l 2002

[1 big burban]

i have a 1994 burb 2500 4x4 that came with a 454 they had performed at 2002 6.0 swap and i have only a voltmeter guage. tach dont work, speed o dont work, temp guage is pegged and oil press guage is pegged and idea's will be appreciated. i have the 411 ecm oh ya no fuel guage either

[RedHeartbeat]

Where are you located?

Temp and oil pressure are pegged because they're most likely not hooked up to the engine.

[1 big burban]

i am located in the chicken ranch capital pahrump nv. and they may not be hooked upto the new ecm im not sure.

[1 big burban]

is there a way to hook these up from engine to cluster? the truck runs great would really like to have vitals ya know?

[RedHeartbeat]

the wire cluster coming from the cab on the drivers side should have three wires that connects the gauges for water temp, alternator and oil pressure. All three are one wire connections. The light brown wire is for the single wire oil pressure sender. Dark brown is the alternator signal lead. Green wire goes to a coolant temp sender. The last engine I did, I put a stock sender from the year model vehicle in the oil pressure hole behind the manifold using an adapter available from SummitRacing.com, 14mm x 1/4npt. For water temp I drilled and tapped the waterpump behind the accessory tensioner pulley. The alternator lead is ran straight to the small wire coming from the alternator. If you have a wire going to the pcm already you may be able to cut that lead and tie the dash unit wire to it.

[93blackbeast]

The speedometer should be a simple splice thing. Just get the VSS output from the new 6.0 PCM and splice it into the lead going to the speedometer. Then, you'll have to just adjust the tire size and gear ratio in the tune to get it dialed in.

Next, the tach module is a different beast. To get it to register on your tach, you have to do the following. Take the tach output from the 6.0 PCM and splice it in to the tach gauge input (should be a white wire). The way the gauges is set up on the new PCM is there is a ~5v source "somewhere" in the harness that powers the gauge. To make this work on your OBS vehicle, you have to splice in a 12V power source and a resistor (I'm not for sure off the top of my head of the Ohms) to get the needle on your gauge to start to bounce. That was the thing that threw me off for a while was the 12V source spliced into the Tach input wire. Lastly, to get it to read the correct RPM's, you have two options. You can either use the tune to set the Tach output to 3 instead of the default 6 or vice versa (again, I can't remember off the top of my head) or if you don't want to go with the tune route, you can purchase a Baker Electronix signal converter (and I have one for sale for cheap) and splice it into the Tach input and adjust the settings on the converter to make it match your actual RPMs. Either way, it may sound like a lot of stuff, but its really not that bad.

I'll try and dig up the resistor information as well for the Tach.