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Thread: Why is my truck slowly going back to stock?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Muskogee, OK
    Posts
    171

    Why is my truck slowly going back to stock?

    This time one year ago I was running an STS rear mount turbo kit on my 2006 Silverado 1500 with a 4.8L engine...I was only running about 5 pounds of boost so it was nothing special, but it was so fun. After about 2 months the turbo was holding up fine until one day i was driving, got on it hard, then the engine just died while moving; got out, checked the oil, and it barely registered on the dipstick...somehow a fitting on the oil supply system for the turbo leaked all of my oil out slowly and I never caught it. The engine was seized, I got it fixed for about 3 grand, and sold my turbo to help get my truck running again. Now I'm basically driving around a stock 4.8L silverado with no balls. I'm afraid to do anything crazy because the dealership fixed the engine using the "cost effective" meathod so needless to say the engine makes a slight knock still...What do you guys think I should do for performance? Scrap the 4.8 and go with a 6.0 or something...or should I just go through the 4.8 with a fine tooth comb?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Do a 6.0L LQ4 engine as a start and then boost it later.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Muskogee, OK
    Posts
    171
    How much does a typical 6.0 engine swap run?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    whatever your donor engine costs - sale of 4.8 + tune cost
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Muskogee, OK
    Posts
    171
    Is it better get a crate 6.0 or just look around my area for one? I've got a friend that put a 6.0 in his silverado and said it was pretty easy...said it basically fell in place and plugged right in...I think he said it needed a new flexplate. Sorry I'm asking dumb questions...I guess I'm learning on my feet. I was in a wreck last night at my towns cruise night so I should really be focusing on body work versus doing an engine swap. Lol! Some crazy lady flipped a u-turn right in front of me...clipped my passenger door and rear quarter pannel pretty good...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Dude, fix the body first. See if the insurance company is going to try to total it first. If so, it may be best to let them do that and gain some $$$$ out of the settlement before doing a swap.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Hurley, Mississippi
    Posts
    365
    Red, you are slick!
    '86 Silvy- '06 6.0/4L80E, K&N, 2.5 X-pipe Magnaflows, 20" Foose Wheels, Auburn Pro, 3.90 Richmond Gears, and the list is growing!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    The casting will be on the passenger side of the backside of the block
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    Dude--just buy a 6.0L from somewhere. Internet, local junk yard, Craigslist...whatever. You could even buy a longblock with 317 casting heads. The exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, coil packs, accessories, etc..pretty much the upper end of the motor (sans the heads) of the 4.8L can be used on the 6.0L. Once you buy a 6.0L, MAKE SURE you tear that motor down and do a visual inspection of everything...like remove, clean, and inspect the intake, heads, etc. Go through it with a fine comb and a bunch of Brake Clean. Install new head gaskets when reinstalling the heads.

    Modifying a motor is 10X easier when the motor is sitting on a crate on the garage floor versus being in the truck. If you wanna go all-motor, you should consider putting in a cam, valve springs, pushrods, 243 heads, pulleys, etc. before it goes in. Yes, a V8-to-V8 motor swap is pretty much a direct swap concerning the electrical hook ups, vacuum lines, TB, etc. If you installed a STS kit, you can swap a 4.8L to a 6.0L...

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    Yeah, if you can't find a complete motor, go ahead and find a good long block then buy some 317 heads--or if you want some better performance, get a set of 243 heads! Everything else from the 4.8L will swap over.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

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