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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    208

    fuel problem

    well all i put that new fuel pump and scrrener in and a fuel filter 2 weeks ago, went and filled up today at Swifty gas and now truck runs like ****. if you jar down on it it spits spuuters shuts off hesistates, ic hanged filter again and still doing it. i hope its jsut bad gas but the truck run like complete ****. tomm im gonna change plugs, change oil and ****. what could htis be just bad gas that needs gone or plugs or what?
    96 Silverado rcsb
    5.7l Vortec
    Exterior: 2 inch drop shackles, Centerline Titan 20" Wheels, clear lights, Debadged.

    -Exterior to come: 2-4 drop, Tinted windows, Cowl hood, Green Calipers
    -Performance mods: Flowmaster True Dual exhaust
    -Performance to come: Tune, CAI, Cam, Spray, Posi, gears, stall, headers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Lebanon TN
    Posts
    116
    Hey Man. I have some bad news for you. I had the same problem about a month ago. My fuel pump went out, left me stranded 40 miles from home, I had the fuel pump replaced and everything was fine until I filled up again. I did not even make it home b4 it started acting up. Like you I thought I had bad gas so I dumped in some HEET to take care of the problem, only it did not help so changed the fuel filter. I started the truck everything seemed fine until I got in it to go to work, about half way there it started again!!! I took it back to the shop. I only had 30 psi fuel pressure and when you reved it up the presure went down. The new fuel pump had failed. B4 you do too much more to the truck, check the fuel pressure I think you will find it low.
    Chris S The GoFastPadre 00 Sierra ECSB Z71 Mods so far Headers Dual HFC's Flowmasters K&N CAI and much more to come. 06 Grand Prix no mods yet

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    A common mistake made when installing a new pump in an OBS truck is the line connecting the pump to the fuel tank module. You MUST use a high pressure rated fuel hose rated at over 80PSI burst pressure otherwise it may split. I also put two hose clamps on each end of the hose to keep it from slipping off under pressure.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    208
    whats the pressure its spose to be at idle and at throttle? ill put a pressure gauge on it and see where im at, if the pressures are ok then i guess its plugs or the fuel?
    96 Silverado rcsb
    5.7l Vortec
    Exterior: 2 inch drop shackles, Centerline Titan 20" Wheels, clear lights, Debadged.

    -Exterior to come: 2-4 drop, Tinted windows, Cowl hood, Green Calipers
    -Performance mods: Flowmaster True Dual exhaust
    -Performance to come: Tune, CAI, Cam, Spray, Posi, gears, stall, headers.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    13,138
    I used 300 psi fuel hose so that it would never break apart or anything
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    THE MEAN STREETS OF OKLAHOMA
    Posts
    11,120
    my buddy had the same kind of problem and it turned out to be the plugs so if you find that its not the fuel lines or pump its probably the plugs, but also it wont hurt to throw some heet in the tank.
    THEY CALL ME G.

    AZRAEL

    2017 RZR 1000 2 SEATER
    2023 RZR 1000 XP 4
    2008 LTZ DURAMAX 3500
    2023 300S 5.7
    2023 BUICK ENCORE[/B]

    The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    208
    it threw a tranny solenoid code and alos the fuel pressure is 40-44# idling and at throttle. still spitting and sputtering like crazy. any suggestions.
    96 Silverado rcsb
    5.7l Vortec
    Exterior: 2 inch drop shackles, Centerline Titan 20" Wheels, clear lights, Debadged.

    -Exterior to come: 2-4 drop, Tinted windows, Cowl hood, Green Calipers
    -Performance mods: Flowmaster True Dual exhaust
    -Performance to come: Tune, CAI, Cam, Spray, Posi, gears, stall, headers.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Wait a minute, you still have the 96 model 5.7L vortec? Horse of another color. That ones supposed to probably run 43 PSI. Not sure. Backfire/sputter would probably mean time for a distributor cap and rotor.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    maine
    Posts
    1,458
    yeah my 4.3 had a corroded distributor cab and it really made the truck sputter especially when it rained.. it was bad. once i replaced it the truck ran great. you wil be able to tell as soon as you take it off itll have that nasty green battery acid corrsion look to it.
    09 CREWCAB LTZ SILVERADO, 6.2, SIX SPEED, CAI,

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Anthony, Indiana
    Posts
    1,592
    found this here code 1351.. what needs to be replaced? - Car Forums and Automotive Chat

    Heres a starting point for P1351

    Conditions for Running the DTC


    The ignition control is enabled
    The engine speed is less than 250 RPM

    Conditions for Setting the DTC
    The ignition control voltage is more than 4.9 volts.

    Action Taken When the DTC Sets


    The Control Module illuminates the Malfunction [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]Indicator [COLOR=blue! important]Lamp[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] (MIL) if a failure is detected during 2 consecutive key cycles.

    The Control Module will set the DTC and records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]Control [COLOR=blue! important]Module[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] stores the failure information in the scan tools Freeze Frame and/or the Failure Records.

    Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC


    The Control Module turns OFF the MIL after 3 consecutive drive trips when the test has Run and Passed.

    A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles (coolant temperature has risen 22°C (40°F) from the start-up coolant temperature and the [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]engine [COLOR=blue! important]coolant[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] temperature is more than 70°C (158°F) during the same ignition cycle).

    Use the scan tool Clear Information function.

    Diagnostic Aids
    Intermittent test - If the connections and the harness check OK, monitor a digital voltmeter connected between VCM terminal C3 pin 9 and C4 pin 18 while moving related connectors and [COLOR=blue! important][COLOR=blue! important]wiring [COLOR=blue! important]harness[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR].

    If the failure is induced, the voltage reading will change. This may help to isolate the location of the malfunction.

    An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:


    A poor connection

    Rubbed through wire insulation

    A broken wire inside the insulation

    Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint.
    Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis. See: Diagnosis By Symptom

    Test Description
    The numbers below refer to the step numbers in the diagnostic table.


    This step determines if the DTC is an intermittent.
    This step checks if the IC signal from the VCM is available at the ignition control module.

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