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Thread: Wideband vs. Narrowband

  1. #1
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    Wideband vs. Narrowband

    I know wideband is better but...... My question is, what is the major difference between the two? I mean, can I run a narrowband with nitrous, and still have an accurate AFR reading? OR is the narrowband not trusted with power adders?
    2001 Silverado, work in progress. Add a vette servo and Nissan e-fans




  2. #2
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    Stock O2's are narrowband sensors. No one will tell you that you can't run spray without a wideband, but its a hugely helpful thing to have and a good insurance policy if you know what the readings mean and how to react to them. A narrowband is limited in its range that it can sense about 14-15 to 1 afr where as a wideband is accurate in readding about 10-18 to 1 afr. That is iirc. Basically don't waste ur money on an aftermarket narrow band and best thing to do if your going FI is get a WB.
    ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06

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  3. #3
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    Narrowband-narrow range +/- 1 or 2 points around 14.7. Widebands can range from 8-18 usually.
    2006 Silverado
    Little Black Bitch

  4. #4
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    Cool, thank you man. That helps out alot. Thanks again.
    2001 Silverado, work in progress. Add a vette servo and Nissan e-fans




  5. #5
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    Now that Christmas has come and went, I can start saving for my truck. Just kinda getting an idea on what to get. I hate buying stuff that come to find out was a waste of money. Thats the reason I like this site. Cornucopia of great info, and great people to give.
    2001 Silverado, work in progress. Add a vette servo and Nissan e-fans




  6. #6
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    There are better ways to monitor your AFR when running nitrous and most all say the best way is by reading your spark plug electrode heat reading after a WOT run on the spray. Set the mixture rich to start with and work your way up. Monitor your bottle pressure, too. Low pressure at the bottle will make you run rich and too high of pressure will cause a lean condition.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #7
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    Thing is, you need to know how to read plugs, and to get the best reading youre suppose to cut the motor after your run and coast to the return lane pull a plug and check it, others say you can drive it back to the pits, but youre still dealing with a hot ass motor unless you wait for it to cool down, now if you wanna do it that way i would still recommed the WB so you can make sure that youre not about to explode gooin down the track. Obviously i dont practice what i preach. I cant read a plug to save.my life

  8. #8
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    I am not going to lie man, I don't know how to read a plug. I have old school friends that ask, whats the plug look like. I reply like a spark plug. I know if it has oil on the electrode strap, thats a bad thing I had a dirt bike that did that often. I little tan is good, but and white with the strap melted is bad also. Thats about is for my plug reading. I would probably make a better palm reader. So I will just stick with the WB. Thank you everyone for your in put. And G, thats the way we have to get a reading on my dads drag bike. Kill it at the big end. Its a lot easier on a bike, because we tow it back to the pits. And those who care, this is my dads drag bike.
    2001 Silverado, work in progress. Add a vette servo and Nissan e-fans




  9. #9
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    Sweet
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  10. #10
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    Thank you sir. My KZ isn't as fast or does it look as good. But it's fun to ride :lol;
    2001 Silverado, work in progress. Add a vette servo and Nissan e-fans




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