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Thread: Chasing my a$$ on a steering problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    130

    Chasing my a$$ on a steering problem

    Victim is a 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 (Classic body style) with a vortec 5.7l. The truck is all stock. Nothing changed from oem (tires, engine, suspension).

    The problem is that as soon as i picked it up in 2005 the steering wheel would have to be around 11 oclock postion to keep straight. I replaced all ball joints, tie rods, idler and pitman arm with moog parts and a 4 wheel alignment. The control arm bushings appeared ok to me and others.

    Within a year the idler arm will be shot.... the steering wheel works its way back toward the 10 oclock position to keep the truck straight. The truck pulls to the right if you let go of the steering. I feel no looseness turning steering to the left but when i go back from left toward center i feel slack getting taken up. Brakes have been gone over many times and no stuck caliper.

    Steering gearbox getting worn beyond its usefull life? Anyone else have this experience with their mid to late 90's fullsize?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Coon Rapids, MN
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    have you cross rotated the front tires could be a radial pull on the tires ? also the steering gear may have some slop in it as well. did u just replace the idler arm or arm and the bracket as well

    04 Grand Prix GTP
    03 Z71 wanting a Turbo ,Stall, and Tune BAD
    THE SURGEON GENERAL SAYS NOTHING ABOUT SMOKIN A FORD

  3. #3
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    I always replace the bracket and arm at the same time. Rotating tires makes no difference. It literally is eating up idler and pitman arms and i can never get that "tight like new" feeling in the steering. Last time it was aligned the tires were replaced all the way around. The front ones were of course just ate up. Feathered outward on the outer edge.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Denton Texas
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    20,540
    check the frame for damage. the old body style trucks were notorious for cracks around where the gear box mounted to the frame
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    North Texas
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    I would start with the 4-wheel alignment. Who sold you that? It's not possible since the rear is not adjustable. Makes me think a monkey did it and it ain't right. Post a scan of the print out you got with the alignment. I'll tell you if it's right. No print out? A monkey DID do it then.

    Brake hoses are common pull causes on the GMT400 trucks. With no pressure on the pedal, open the bleeder on the RF. If it spurts (yes, I wrote that), suspect front hoses. If not, keep looking.

    Not sure what you mean by "Within a year the idler arm will be shot"....are you predicting the future or did you mess up your tenses and you had a more rapid than expected failure of the idler arm? Idler arms are JUNK on the 400 and don't last long. There is a chance you bought one for the wrong application (at the fault of the parts guy) that has an improper amount of drop, offset, etc. This type of fouled angularity would wear parts and cause a pull most likely.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2011
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    I know the front wheels arent adjustable but you can align the front wheels with the rears. Atleast that is my understanding of a 4 wheel alignment. So are the brake hoses getting soft and storing pressure and bulging which is putting pressure on the pistons in their calipers? Would not it do this on both sides and cause premature brake pade wear which I am NOT experiencing. I will have to inspect the frame for cracks around steering gearbox, ive never heard of that one nor even suspected it. But it does make sense. Literally...my truck tears up and idler arm every year! The idler arm will have 3/8" of an inch vertical deflection when pushing in on tire with wheels of the ground. The ball/socket slop is horrible on removal of bad idler arm. These are the moog problem solvers. I have verified the part numbers with moog and multiple parts outlets. Wouldnt be the first time ive had a parts house try to sell me suspension parts for the 2000 up trucks since the 1999 GMC Sierra is a different creature....mine technically is a GMC K1500... But it does say Sierra on it. There were different trucks 4x4 made in 1999. Mine is the "classic" body style 3 door.
    Whats this GMT400 moniker? Where did that come from and what does it mean?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    That could be the problem. The GMT400, which yours is, is just the name that GM gave them. GMT800 is 99-07 and GMT900 is the current model. You may be getting the parts for a 99+ rather than the pre 99 trucks which you need.
    T-RAV
    99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    North Texas
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    12,078
    Quote Originally Posted by remauto1187 View Post
    I know the front wheels arent adjustable but you can align the front wheels with the rears. Atleast that is my understanding of a 4 wheel alignment. So are the brake hoses getting soft and storing pressure and bulging which is putting pressure on the pistons in their calipers? Would not it do this on both sides and cause premature brake pade wear which I am NOT experiencing. I will have to inspect the frame for cracks around steering gearbox, ive never heard of that one nor even suspected it. But it does make sense. Literally...my truck tears up and idler arm every year! The idler arm will have 3/8" of an inch vertical deflection when pushing in on tire with wheels of the ground. The ball/socket slop is horrible on removal of bad idler arm. These are the moog problem solvers. I have verified the part numbers with moog and multiple parts outlets. Wouldnt be the first time ive had a parts house try to sell me suspension parts for the 2000 up trucks since the 1999 GMC Sierra is a different creature....mine technically is a GMC K1500... But it does say Sierra on it. There were different trucks 4x4 made in 1999. Mine is the "classic" body style 3 door.
    Whats this GMT400 moniker? Where did that come from and what does it mean?
    The front wheels ARE adjustable, the rear is NOT. There is no such thing as a 4-wheel alignment on a solid axle truck.

    Still need to see the "alignment" done to provide you with helpful information there.

    Did you do what I said to help diagnose a possible brake hose issue? Might try that before using your kind of logic. You sort of have the possible hose issue correct but might need to understand the way the square cut piston seals in the calipers work, etc. before starting a debate.

    Your idler arm debacle doesn't make a lot of sense....but maybe it's not the idler arm. Maybe post a pic.

  9. #9
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    Apr 2011
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    130
    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    The front wheels ARE adjustable, the rear is NOT. There is no such thing as a 4-wheel alignment on a solid axle truck.

    Still need to see the "alignment" done to provide you with helpful information there.

    Did you do what I said to help diagnose a possible brake hose issue? Might try that before using your kind of logic. You sort of have the possible hose issue correct but might need to understand the way the square cut piston seals in the calipers work, etc. before starting a debate.

    Your idler arm debacle doesn't make a lot of sense....but maybe it's not the idler arm. Maybe post a pic.
    Thats just a "typo" I am fully aware that the FRONT is adjustable for caster/camber and the rears are not. But can you not align the front wheels to the rears? Now for "debate"..... Would not a hose storing hydraulic pressure cause the piston in the caliper to keep pressure on the brake pads while the brake pedal IS NOT pressed which would definitely cause premature brake pad wear? I can tell you that I have never replaced the hoses on this truck and dont have any reason to believe the previous owner has either (It was 5yrs old when i got it). As you can tell this isnt my first rodeo with a car/truck but suspension gremlins are not my forte. There is a reason this truck is still on the road with 245k on the odometer, 4l60e rebuilt at 123K and rear differential rebuilt and axle/pinion bearings all new, god didnt do it...i did! I do know that i am not getting parts for the 2000 up trucks. I ALWAYS make all parts suppliers compare part number for my application to the 98 K1500 part application just to make sure i am not getting wrong part.

    What all do you want a picture of? Idler arm (installed) ?

  10. #10
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    Stafford, VA
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    I would also be leaning towards frame damage. I think it would explain most of your issues.
    - Paul J.
    2006 Silverado LT3 L33 Z71 - Mods: K&N Air Filter; Taylor Wires
    2008 Azera Limited - Mods: (Yah, wife's car ... not happening)
    (SOLD) 1994 Camaro Z28 - Mods: (Too many to mention)
    (SOLD) 2004 Suburban 5.3L Z71 - Mods: Flex-a-Lite 292 Monster Fan
    (SOLD) 2000 Silverado 5.3L Z71 - Mods: (NTIKO)
    (SOLD) 1991 Suburban 350 2WD - Mods: (NTIKO)

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