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Thread: Driveshaft set-ups for 4L80 swaps...what's YOURS?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    NAS China Lake California
    Posts
    132

    Question Driveshaft set-ups for 4L80 swaps...what's YOURS?

    I realized that I need to step up to a 4L80 for my 07 RCSB.....I'm just not sure if I want to keep my stock drive shaft and just put a different U-joint on it with a shorter slip yoke, or just get a drive shaft made for it.....I keep seeing RCSB trucks with drive shafts breaking on the dyno like thier going outa style....and I would like to avoid having that problem.....SO....if ya have a 4L80 in your RCSB truck....what did ya do to the drive shaft to make the swap complete and not vibrate......and did you keep the stock rear end in the truck?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
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    13,138
    If your located in Austin, I would strongly recommened getting yours shortened through Austin Drivetrain. They did that for ChevyLee for a couple hundred and it's a good investment.
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    NAS China Lake California
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    132
    I'm in California...well....the "crotch of the armpit" of California...Ridgecrest....theres only two things out here....METH...and the BASE.........I work on the base, and don't have to "study" for a piss test...HA HA

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    I have seen people get away with throwing the 1350 yoke on there and being just fine. But if that scares you, get a driveshaft loop.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Broken Bow, OK
    Posts
    1,434
    What is the actual difference in length?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    I would suggest going to a steel driveshaft with 1350 joints. Get a new one built if you must. Many local builders can build you one from scratch for a very decent price. Get a 1350 yoke for the rear end if you don't have one on there, too. My 2007 has a steel shaft but it makes me nervous with all the surface rust on it. I'll likely have one built when I put the 80e in, myself. Call your driveshaft builder and ask what measurements you need to provide them to build you a new one.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #7
    I am wondering this also. so let me get this straight, i can use my stock shaft if i change the yoke on the diff? is there anything elce to it? u joints, slip yoke??

  8. #8
    99RCSB Broke because I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars on my truck.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Rio Grande City TX.
    Posts
    220
    well I getting the swap right now on my truck and I going with a driveshaft from (Driveshaft unlimited) at San Antonio and for the rear end I left the 373's but went with a Eaton posi.
    2004 Silverado:THELSX L.M.E LSX 454 C.I tuned by Llavero 11.1 N/A @121 MPH
    2004 Sierra:GUNSLINGER L.M.E LSX 427C.I,Twin Borg Warner/Forced Induction 76mm, th400, Ford 9" with ladder bar

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