N2o Purge

[ff_jeff]

Can I use the Purge solenoid for a 50hp dry shot? What are your thoughts on running a dry and wet shot? Once I get my cam, locker&gears, and the nitrous plate on I wanna have a 50 shot for the hole, and a 100 shot on the window switch. I just didnt know if the purge could be used like that. I figured if I bought a dry nozzle, and braided line I could tap the top of the air filter (like the zex one) and spray through the MAF. Or would I have to get a fuel solenoid to go with it? Thoughts any one?

[ff_jeff]

Nobody has any thoughts?

[RedHeartbeat]

only do a dry shot before the MAF. A wet shot at the filter would not be good, you might get to try out your firefighting skills. There is no reason you cant use a purge noid as one for the dry shot but why not just buy a new noid while getting the lines and fittings for the dry shot? Two stages will be fun. Be sure to check your injector duty cycle before putting the addition fuel load on them caused by the dry shot. If they're almost maxed out now they'll be maxed completely out trying to keep up with the dry shot.

[ff_jeff]

...I figured if I bought a dry nozzle, and braided line I could tap the top of the air filter (like the zex one) and spray through the MAF...

only do a dry shot before the MAF. A wet shot at the filter would not be good, you might get to try out your firefighting skills. There is no reason you cant use a purge noid as one for the dry shot but why not just buy a new noid while getting the lines and fittings for the dry shot? Two stages will be fun. Be sure to check your injector duty cycle before putting the addition fuel load on them caused by the dry shot. If they're almost maxed out now they'll be maxed completely out trying to keep up with the dry shot.

I wasnt planning on a wet shot through the maf lol. I figured I would save money and just use the purge because I never use it. How do I check my injector duty cycle? With a scanner?

[RedHeartbeat]

yeah, thats the only way to check it. Be sure to check it after all your engine mods are finished.

[-HIC-]

Jeff, dont be a cheapo on the springs, retainers, etc.. This is the biggest pain in the ass part of the cam swap (springs, seats, retainers and locks) Get double springs up to .600 ish lift, TI retainers, new seats and seals and depending on retainers you may or may not be able to use your oem locks. During the cam swap you will spend the most time changing the springs so imo you should only do it one time, this gives you the freedom to change cams at will, and not worry about the springs.. just my .02

Trust me the first cam you choose will most likely not be the one you are running in two years. The last thing you want to do is have to do the spring swap again.

On another note buy a WBO2 and dont wine about how much they cost, they are cheaper than any nitrous kit out there. They will save your butt when you put more spray on and throw caution to the wind with the injector duty cycle issue.

[ff_jeff]

Jeff, dont be a cheapo on the springs, retainers, etc.. This is the biggest pain in the ass part of the cam swap (springs, seats, retainers and locks) Get double springs up to .600 ish lift, TI retainers, new seats and seals and depending on retainers you may or may not be able to use your oem locks. During the cam swap you will spend the most time changing the springs so imo you should only do it one time, this gives you the freedom to change cams at will, and not worry about the springs.. just my .02

Trust me the first cam you choose will most likely not be the one you are running in two years. The last thing you want to do is have to do the spring swap again.

On another note buy a WBO2 and dont wine about how much they cost, they are cheaper than any nitrous kit out there. They will save your butt when you put more spray on and throw caution to the wind with the injector duty cycle issue.

Thanx for the input. I allready have a wideband o2 sensor. As for the valve springs thing, the only reason I am even putting a cam in is because I found a killer deal on the cam. I didnt want to take off anything when I trade this truck in,in a year or two. I figured the ls6 valve springs are more than enough for a .525 lift cam. And if I dont have to replace the seals, retainers, and locks I wont. Not that Im a cheapo, just no since spending $1200-$1500 for a cam swap with new high end parts then have to remove them when I trade in, or do a motor swap any ways. With my cam, ls6 springs, comp pushrods, new crank bolt, and plugs, oil, and misc other crap I will have only spent maybe $400. When I build My 97 step side reg cab I am going into low 10's maybe high 9's and THEN I will be using the best of the best in products. I plan on spending $20k-$40k on that truck. My 04 4.8l is just my DD and a toy. The cam I bought will stay in untill I trade, or decide to sell. If I just cant stand the cam at all, I will put either the stocker back in or a z06 cam.

[-HIC-]

Thanx for the input. I allready have a wideband o2 sensor. As for the valve springs thing, the only reason I am even putting a cam in is because I found a killer deal on the cam. I didnt want to take off anything when I trade this truck in,in a year or two. I figured the ls6 valve springs are more than enough for a .525 lift cam. And if I dont have to replace the seals, retainers, and locks I wont. Not that Im a cheapo, just no since spending $1200-$1500 for a cam swap with new high end parts then have to remove them when I trade in, or do a motor swap any ways. With my cam, ls6 springs, comp pushrods, new crank bolt, and plugs, oil, and misc other crap I will have only spent maybe $400. When I build My 97 step side reg cab I am going into low 10's maybe high 9's and THEN I will be using the best of the best in products. I plan on spending $20k-$40k on that truck. My 04 4.8l is just my DD and a toy. The cam I bought will stay in untill I trade, or decide to sell. If I just cant stand the cam at all, I will put either the stocker back in or a z06 cam.

In that case, proceed my friend!