I was wondering if you guys had any tips for putting in my cam. I plan on taking off my front end to take out, and install the new one. Also i was wondering if you guys new the torque ratings for the valve springs, and what the lash is suppose to be set at? Thanks for any help in Advance.
2004 4.8l 6 speed manual 2wd
Looks: 22" foose rims with Fierce tires, SS front bumper, SS Front Grill, 2/3 lowering kit.
Performance: Volant Intake, 3" exaust with Spintech muffler, Pacesetter LT's with Y pipe, TR cam 220/220 .551 112 lsa, T56 Tranny with the Keisler short Shift kit and LS7 Clutch, Quicktime Scatter Shield, ASP Underdrive pulley kit, Dyno tune by Rick at Synergy Motorsports
Soon to Come:Eaton locker, Electric Fans..Does it ever End?
Torque the lifters to 22 ft. lbs with a torque wrench and you are done with that part.
Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 09-14-2007 at 09:43 PM.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
You'll need to pull the valve covers, coil packs, rockers, pushrods, radiator, fans and shroud, cooling fan, cooling hoses and water pump and then the front pulley. I wrap a chain through the pulley and tie it to some place convenient to keep it from turning. You'll need a breaker bar and some cheater pipe with a 24mm socket to remove the crank bolt(buy a new bolt, don't reuse the old one). A three jaw puller will take the balancer off. Remove the front cover, there are two bolts from below also. Put the stock bolt back in the crank and turn the cam gear around until the alignment hole mark is pointed straight up. There is a mark behind the block you should align it to. If you can't see the mark, rotate the alignment dot and mark it's location on the block with a paint marker or similar device. Remove the cam gear retainer bolt and drop the chain. Put the cam gear back on and rotate the cam 3 or 4 full times right before you're ready to put the new cam in. Pull the old cam out, slide new cam in, remove cam gear from old cam and install on new cam with the chain, being sure that the alignment dot on cam and block match. Assembly reverse of tear-down. A very small dab of silicone in the corner where oil pan, front cover and block match up. Use old balancer bolt to draw balancer on, torque up to 240 ft lbs. Replace with new bolt when ready to torque to specs and tighten to 37 ft lbs and then mark its location and tighten 140 degrees further, just over 1/3 of a turn. Use previous chain to hold balance/crank from turning. Once you've installed the balancer, loosen all the cover bolts and allow the front cover to find it's center and then tighten the bolts to 18 ft lbs. Don't forget the bottom two bolts, they'll strip out if you over tighten them and then you'll be buying a helicoil kit to repair the threads so be careful.
Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 09-14-2007 at 09:56 PM.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
your not really setting valve lash your adjusting pre-load....with the lifter on the base circle of the cam tighten the rocker arm while spinnig the push rod between your finger and thumb and as soon as it stops spinning your at zero lash.....now when you tighen the rocker the rest of the way you want between 3/4 to 1 1/2 of a turn to seat the rocker arm....anything more or less may require different push rod lengths or you can use shims under the rocker arm girdle .. mine needed .030" shims but my heads were also milled. if this is confusing i can try to find you more info on the procedure...Originally Posted by BSridenguy
05 RC, LME 6.0, 243 Heads, LSA Rods, 11:25 Forged Pistons, Cam Motion Custom Grind, 4:10, Eaton LSD, Narrowed Rear-end w/ Chromoly Axles, Pacesetters LT's, SLP Loudmouth II Mufflers, Volant CAI, Yank SSTB3600, Bosch 42 lbs inj's, G-Force Tune, FLT Level 4 Trany, Belltech 2/4, Times: ?
Does the Oil pan need to be dropped any to remove the Front cover? i know on old small block chevy's it needed to be, but i haven't seen anything on these ls1's? Thanks for your guy's help so far, it is greatly appreciated
Last edited by BSridenguy; 09-15-2007 at 12:38 PM.
Looks: 22" foose rims with Fierce tires, SS front bumper, SS Front Grill, 2/3 lowering kit.
Performance: Volant Intake, 3" exaust with Spintech muffler, Pacesetter LT's with Y pipe, TR cam 220/220 .551 112 lsa, T56 Tranny with the Keisler short Shift kit and LS7 Clutch, Quicktime Scatter Shield, ASP Underdrive pulley kit, Dyno tune by Rick at Synergy Motorsports
Soon to Come:Eaton locker, Electric Fans..Does it ever End?
Nope, the only reason to drop the pan is if you replace the timing chain. Then you drop the pan, unbolt the oil pump, pull the timing gear and reverse for installation. Not worth it unless your pump is dead. When replacing the oil pump you have to get it aligned properly or it will not last any time at all. Some guys get lucky and it falls right in place but there is a special GM tool to align it properly. Books tell you that you can take the pump cover off, put a .002" shim between the pump rotor and the pump body bore and then tighten it to the block. I do that and check all around the rotor for the .002" clearance after tightening.
BTW, the only reason for dropping the pan in the above sequence is to gain access to the bolt that holds the oil pickup tube to the pump. Replace the pickup tube seal when replacing a pump and be careful to install it correctly or you'll have real problems. Put the seal on the pickup tube and then install the pump to prevent damage.
Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 09-15-2007 at 12:12 PM.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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so this is where me and my brother got last night before we called it quits. It went pretty fast to pull everything apart, and do the tear down. We labeled all the nuts and bolts, and electronic clips. So hopefully it won't be too hard to put back together. Now we just have to pull off the front cover, loosen the lifters, and pull out the cam. put in the new one, and then change the headers, and then everthing will go back on.i'll put a video clip on of it when i get it done. I wanted to get a video clip of the before too, but i wasn't able to, because i didn't have my video camera sorry. I wanted to get it dyno'd first too, but i didn't cause i had to freaken work, so you guys will be able to see al the afters. THE END result is better anyways right. HAHA
Looks: 22" foose rims with Fierce tires, SS front bumper, SS Front Grill, 2/3 lowering kit.
Performance: Volant Intake, 3" exaust with Spintech muffler, Pacesetter LT's with Y pipe, TR cam 220/220 .551 112 lsa, T56 Tranny with the Keisler short Shift kit and LS7 Clutch, Quicktime Scatter Shield, ASP Underdrive pulley kit, Dyno tune by Rick at Synergy Motorsports
Soon to Come:Eaton locker, Electric Fans..Does it ever End?
when i go to put the new cam in, is regular assembly lube good enough, or is there something specific i should get? Thanks for the help
Looks: 22" foose rims with Fierce tires, SS front bumper, SS Front Grill, 2/3 lowering kit.
Performance: Volant Intake, 3" exaust with Spintech muffler, Pacesetter LT's with Y pipe, TR cam 220/220 .551 112 lsa, T56 Tranny with the Keisler short Shift kit and LS7 Clutch, Quicktime Scatter Shield, ASP Underdrive pulley kit, Dyno tune by Rick at Synergy Motorsports
Soon to Come:Eaton locker, Electric Fans..Does it ever End?
Just plain old engine oil on the cam. Pull the pushrods completely out of the engine when doing the cam swap or the weight of them will push the lifters out of the retainers. You are putting in hardened push rods, correct?
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
what cam are you installing? Lift/duration? Are you replacing the valve springs? More than .53" lift and it's a must.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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