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Ok I am in no way an electrical genius. At all. I hate it. Anyway, to keep a cleaner appearance I want my activation switch to control my purge and then when I hit the master arm switch for my kit the activation switch controls my main n2o and fuel noids. I know it's a relay trick, but other than that I'm lost.
No no. Have one master switch for both, then a seperate button for the purge.
If you want to use the "relay trick", it's a simple matter of a "single pole dual throw" relay (SPDT). They are very easy to use. It will allow you to purge OR spray but NEVER both at the same time. Is that what you were driving at?
I have my purge off just the momentary switch...you use it in such short bursts...and the solenoid is so small, really dont NEED a relay
Then I have an "arm" switch, which runs to the WOT switch, and my push button going to a relay, which feeds both my fuel/nos solenoid (general thought behind that, if any switch fails/wire breaks/etc, they both will stop, dont want nos to spray and fuel wires to have problems)
All of these get power from an 'ignition' source, so I can't accidentally leave it on when car is off. Still allows me to purge without arming the kit. (Nice for when random ricers are driving next to you and you dont have time to/dont want to arm it) I've got a few pics on my fb if you want to look at it.
Okay so basically this is what I came up with. Anyone see an issue?
http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...ingdiagram.png
That diagram/schematic isn't right.
The way it is now, the relays won't even click/engage.
The coil winding or device that gets energized is on pins 85/86, they do not have polarity btw.
The load and main power supplied to the load is switch on and off between pins 87/30.
Follow this.
Pins 85/86 can be small gauge wire (18g), and are usually tied into ignition or battery (this one shows batt).
Pins 87/30 are typically 14/12g, depending on load.
http://www.ls1truck.com/newstorage/t...%28Copy%29.bmp
I know what you want but I'm not infront of a computer at the moment. I'll draw it up and send a picture.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...3/IMAG0026.jpg
Pin 87 and 87a need to be switched on my diagram.87a is the normally closed position.
See that's the same as mine.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...3/IMAG0028.jpg
This should do what you want.
Everyone is making this much too complicated.
instead of using that 5 pin relay, to trigger the Purge relay, why not just have three separate relays?
From the diagram, he's not gonna have Purge when the the Arm switch is ON, right?
On the above diagram, just take that wire on relay 1, pin87a, and take it straight to the Momentary Purge switch.
Get rid of Relay 1, and take the relay connected to the N and F to ARM.
Gets rid of one relay and it'll allow independent control of the Purge and Main system.
Just a thought.
87a is used for a system that needs power or power interrupted all the time, then switched to 87 to power another another system.
Not really used to power another relay, kind of redundant.
again, just my opinion.
It all depends on what you need the relay network to do. This way the actual momentary button is not going to be overloaded, The relays do all the work. As long as 87a is connected to pin 30 it acts just like if the relay was energized and 30 was connected to 87. Some relays have dual current rating for both pin 87 and 87a.
:sigh:
F*CK THIS! Got everything all put together, forgot about all this purge bs. Pulled the plug on the relay just to check everything, put my m,ultimeter on, hit the arm switch and it triggers the noids. WTF? Hit my shifter button, cuts the power. F'ing Hurst built a switch, press for off let go for on. F'ing retarded. Busted out the credit card ordered a window switch with and TPS activation.
it was probably designed for a trans brake......should be able to switch em around and itll work :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Frenchy
I did. I'm just pissed because I went and put and everything back together and loomed and hid all the wires. Now I gotta wait for Nitrous Outlet's forever shipping and then tear it all apart againQuote:
Originally Posted by LamboDoNoMo
Relay networks FTW!
hook a horn to the 'noid' relay while testing....make sure it only honks when its supposed to. What I did. Good safety measure.
I just unplug it and plug my multimeter in and prop it up on the windshield..
Or wire it correctly the first time.