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Thread: Head and cam swap for 6.0

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Caledonia, MI
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    Head and cam swap for 6.0

    After running my swap for a while now, I found out that my valve seals are bad. Sometimes it smokes really bad on startup, sometimes it doesn't. It all depends on how hard I ran it the time before. So might as well get new heads and throw in a cam right?

    Obviously I am asking for good opinions on what head and cam combo to do. I would like to keep it somewhat cheap but I am not going to cheap out so it blows up the next day.

    What I am thinking so far is finding a used set of 243 heads from the LS2's on ebay or sumthing and having them ported/polished etc. (If they aren't already ported). And want to double check that those will work with my application ('05 truck 6.0 iron block).

    The cam that caught my attention was the TR228 or something similar. Maybe a bit bigger? I have no idea so speak up because I am used to the old sbcs and haven't had much experience with the LS motors yet.
    Silverado Z71 10" Lift COMPLETE 6.0/4L80E PRC 2.5 Ported LS6 Heads 228r Comp Cam 3200 CIRCLE D Stall LS7 Lifters ARP Bolts SLP Oil Pump and Double Timing Chain 160 T-Stat 3" SLP Loudmouth Electric Cutout Walbro 255 Pacesetter Longtubes MSD Starter NELSON Harmess NELSON Street/Strip Tuned ECM MSD Wires LS1 Throttle Body Braided Lines Spectre CAI 4.56 Gears Detroit Locker 14 bolt http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...wap-build.html

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    181
    well, if you have to pull the springs, I'd say that justifies the cam and putting in better springs, but Heads... meh I could pass on that in your position. 243s off of an LS2 are effectively bolted up to an alloy version of your block, so no issues there.

    I have a Torquer V2 in my GTO (6.0l) and I'm a big fan of the low end grunt it has... not to mention the idle.. hehe

    232/234 .595/.598 on 112+4


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Springs and cam is that much easier with heads off so why not. Good set of 243s would be a nice gain. And cam choice should be based on what size stall your willing to run
    Slowest in Oklahoma...

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecld_07 View Post
    Springs and cam is that much easier with heads off so why not. Good set of 243s would be a nice gain. And cam choice should be based on what size stall your willing to run
    I did my cam swap without pulling the heads... did the cam swap on my buddie's LS1 GTO pulling the heads to put in link bar lifters, took us about twice as long, and that was AFTER I knew what I was doing already.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9 View Post
    I did my cam swap without pulling the heads... did the cam swap on my buddie's LS1 GTO pulling the heads to put in link bar lifters, took us about twice as long, and that was AFTER I knew what I was doing already.
    Never said it was faster... Just said its that much easier. Obviously going to take longer because of the added work..
    Slowest in Oklahoma...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecld_07 View Post
    Never said it was faster... Just said its that much easier. Obviously going to take longer because of the added work..
    Swapping springs by turning the engine over 90* at a time worked quite well for me, you can also used compressed air and a leakdown tester. What about pulling the heads (and all of the related BS) is 'easier'?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9 View Post
    Swapping springs by turning the engine over 90* at a time worked quite well for me, you can also used compressed air and a leakdown tester. What about pulling the heads (and all of the related BS) is 'easier'?
    Smh.... Are you just trying to argue or what?? If he wants to do cam and heads it's the best time to do it since the valve train and various other parts are coming off. And can do the spring install with worrying about dropping one, or lifters falling. If you've done it all the "related bs" isn't that bad. He did a full swap into this truck so he isn't scared of a little work. A head and cam swap can easily be done in a day.
    Slowest in Oklahoma...

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9 View Post
    Swapping springs by turning the engine over 90* at a time worked quite well for me, you can also used compressed air and a leakdown tester. What about pulling the heads (and all of the related BS) is 'easier'?
    Doing springs on a bench IS easier. You don't have to stand in a cramped ass truck. You don't have to try to get a compressor on the back two springs that are hard to get to. Jesus dude. If the guy is wanting to do a head swap, let him do a head swap.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
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  9. #9
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    Denton Texas
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    also makes for a good time to add the escalade 9 layer head gaskets.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  10. #10
    Freshened heads ready to go can be found all over the www for a good price,collect all the pieces you need and do the swap,that way your truck will be only tied up for a day or two,and you can sell your 317's to get back some of your cash,$150 or so seems to be the going $$ for used 317's.

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