Silly idea....I see everyone is saying mods, etc. But what about the possibilty of a weak fuel pump?? That would for sure make something run like poop. Wouldnt hurt to get the psi checked while it is driven.
Silly idea....I see everyone is saying mods, etc. But what about the possibilty of a weak fuel pump?? That would for sure make something run like poop. Wouldnt hurt to get the psi checked while it is driven.
2000 Silverado 2500 4x4
6.0 V8
Nelson Tuned
True duals w/flowmaster mufflers
cold air intake
dropped some serious coin this weekend
Extang tonneau
Banks exhaust
Eclipse cd player
install kit/harness
RCA cables
Image Dynamics CSX62 v.2 door speakers
Vararam CAI
sub box from subthump
LPP long tube headers and ORY
SLP underdrive pulley What overdrive alt pulley do I need? what belt?
SLP shifter handle
E3 plugs
MSD wires
ARP header studs
Cometic MLS header gaskets
Don't know about the gear swap right now, gonna cost about $1,000 just for parts...
might change tire size on the stock 17's if I can find someone to buy the 265/70R17's on there now. At least then I could do a 4/6 drop on it.
Still need a few odds -n- ends for round one mods.
Wire for amps
3" SS band clamps
sound damping materials
1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4
Gears $160
seals and bearings $100
Elocker $700![]()
Just go to rons machine and get you 4.10s and a tru trac. Its only 600 for all that and install kit.
The header gasket and bolts were a waste as well. Just use the gaskets and bolts that come with the headers.
Yeah... There's nothing wrong with copper or the felpro gaskets.
1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4
The only thing I'm worried about with a tru-trac or locker is in winter. I don't want to be sideways at every overpass. I'm investigating if the tru-trac diffs stay unlocked at highway speeds when this happens. I don't want an exploding gov-lock. I've read the tru-tracs have some reliability issues in stick shift cars, but that might just be with slicks and big HP. Standard detroit lockers are kind of finicky at gear changes in a manual transmission vehicle, they tend to get really squirrelly when they unlock and then relock.
As far as the bolts. I didn't want to mess around with bolts this time. I'll try studs. Plus S/S is shiny.
Why would you want a $700 dollar E-Locker in a 10 bolt, go with the Tru Track and don't look back.
What's wrong with the E3 Plugs, just wondering cause I've heard good things about them. They were tested on Spike's Horse Power TV, they made more horse power, better gas mileage, and lowered emissions.
As far as the gears I'd agree with you though. I have Yukons front and rear, front and rear master install kits, and Tru Track all from Ron's and all that shipped to my door was under $1000....
2002 Silverado 2500HD LB7 CCSB LT
EFI Live by Rob at ATP, Edge CTS Insight DSP 5 control, S&B CAI, PPE boost valve, Pro Fab AIH, AirDog II 165, PPE WIF sensor delete plug, 5" stainless exhaust, Cognito braces & HD tie rods, H2's 315/70 R17 BFG's
2004 Tahoe LT
2006 Silverado Z71 LS
1971 Chevy C10