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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mesquite
    Posts
    8,176
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shwarmy &#064; Aug 23 2006, 05&#58;13 PM) [snapback]62128[/snapback]</div>
    I went to home depot and purchased the &#036;9 alluminum dryer hose and a &#036;10 can of spray insulation. I removed the bottom part of the air box and cut a round hole with a dremel big enough for the hose to fit threw. Below the bottom part of the air is a metal plate that you have to match up and cut a hole that lines up with the hole in the bottom of the air box. You want to cut the hole in the bottom of the air box on the side closest to the engine if you dont you will not be able to fit it down between the shroad of the wheel well and the frame. You route the hose down and squeeze it between the metal bar that supports the front bumber and then route it up in front of the condensor and behing the front grill. You will need to cut some of the rubber that sits between the inside of the bumper and the grill. Then you will need to direct the hose to point forward and gather the air. There is a hole next to where the front clip snaps into place that you and put a zip tie threw and hold the hose in place. To finish up the air box after you have routed the hose use the spray in insulation to fill the 2 holes in the side of the air box and then around the hose. *Important* DO NOT PUT THE FILTER OR TOP OF THE AIR BOX back on until the insulation has dried. Otherwise you will risk damageing the maf from the fumes of the insulation cureing. After the insulation is dry take a knife and cut and clean up the insulation so that it looks good and so you can still put the air filer in and the top of the air box. I will try and get the pictures up soon. if you have any questions feel free to send me an email.
    [/b]
    ok, pretty similar to what I was thinking of doing. Only question is why plug the two factory holes? I would think the more air the better.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    College Station, TX
    Posts
    652
    Well if you leave the holes open then you dont get the forced induction effect. By plugging the holes allows for pressure to build up in the box from the ram air instead of the extra air being blown out the holes.
    2004 EXC Silverado 6.2L
    Mods:
    6.2L L92, Ported and Polished stage 3 heads, 95mm Throttle Body, 100mm MAF, NA, Pacesetter LT Headers, Magnaflow X-Pipe Muffler, Electric Fans, 160* thermostat, 2" Drop Shackles, Hellwig Sway Bars Front and Rear, Monroe Reflex Shocks, NGK Spark Plugs, AMW Oil Catch Can, 17"x10" wheels on Kuhmo Tires.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mesquite
    Posts
    8,176
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shwarmy &#064; Aug 24 2006, 12&#58;05 PM) [snapback]62224[/snapback]</div>
    Well if you leave the holes open then you dont get the forced induction effect. By plugging the holes allows for pressure to build up in the box from the ram air instead of the extra air being blown out the holes.
    [/b]
    Gotchya. Did you notice a difference?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    College Station, TX
    Posts
    652
    I breathes alot better at 60mph and higher. It improved my gas millage by .5 mpg. If i step on it, it will drop to the lower gear much faster and have better power.
    2004 EXC Silverado 6.2L
    Mods:
    6.2L L92, Ported and Polished stage 3 heads, 95mm Throttle Body, 100mm MAF, NA, Pacesetter LT Headers, Magnaflow X-Pipe Muffler, Electric Fans, 160* thermostat, 2" Drop Shackles, Hellwig Sway Bars Front and Rear, Monroe Reflex Shocks, NGK Spark Plugs, AMW Oil Catch Can, 17"x10" wheels on Kuhmo Tires.

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