+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: 4l60e death

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Mansfield, Texas, USA
    Posts
    2,462
    Originally posted by wrencher1@May 6 2004, 07:37 PM
    I do know what you are saying. Although, the popular opinion with many rebuilders in this area is the '03-'04 4l60e is probably the strongest version of the overdrives built. This unit in my truck failed during half throttle acceleration-half way through second gear at about 40-45 mph-if thats worth anything. The repair bill will probably die a slow death in my checkbook register.

    So, back to my question-what has everyone else broke and any suggestions for upgraded hard parts?
    The 4L65E is actually the best unit around. It comes behind the 6.0 HO 'Sclade, SS, etc. It's got most of the HD crap the aftermarket offers stock. It's a LONG overdue update. IMO, that should come behind everything now...not select vehicles.

    Even if it failed at low throttle, you can't say you never have gone WOT with the truck. The downshifts kill the shafts typically. It prolly was stressed so much then finally let go.

    What I listed is what breaks...

    Front/Rear planets
    Sun Gear Reaction shell
    Input drum
    Input/Output shafts
    2-4 band anchor
    That's about all that breaks.

    I'll post the list of internals to buy...
    The superior man is modest in his speech, but exceeds in his actions. - Confucius

    "He who asks of life nothing but the improvement of his own nature, is less liable than anyone else to miss and waste life."- Henri Frederic Amiel

    '01 Chev Z71 LT - '85 BMW 745i TURBO - '88 BMW 750iL - '88 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - '79 MB 240D - '79 MB 280S Euro
    '80 MB 380SE-5.0 Euro - '85 MB 300SD - '87 MB 300SDL - 1990 MB 300SEL - '91 MB 300SE - '91 MB 560SEL

    Let's face it, the red hair... makes 'em wet.


  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    147
    Chingon has something going on there ... I think the RADIX should be coined the tranny killer.

    I am honestly surprised you broke the shaft, if there is stock programming and no shift kit or anything of that nature done. If that's the case, then the clutches should have started slipping first. Believe me, I would be THE first to agree with you about the dealership having to fix it, but I think they are right on this one. I would just get it built or buy a built one. You can get a fully built 60e for about a grand less than what the dealership is telling you they can get one for. It sounds like you pissed them off.
    Arrival Blue 2003 Chevy Silverado RCSB (stepside) w/ 5.3 and an exhaust leak.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Mansfield, Texas, USA
    Posts
    2,462
    THESE ARE JUST A FEW BASICS:
    A quality paper and rubber kit, be sure to use new bushings too
    Make sure the band clearance is right and take up the end play. End play and slop helps kill transmissions.
    Throw away the "load release" springs out of the 3-4 clutch pack. Even the ATSG manual strongly suggests this!
    Get a BIG tranny cooler.

    HARD PARTS:
    29 Element Foreward Input Sprag - far better in HO applications
    13 Vane Pump Conversion Kit - extra fluid flow at higher RPMs
    Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Front Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal
    Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Rear Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal
    Heavy Duty Reaction Carrier Shaft - eliminates need for thrust washers, works in conjunction with the Sun Gear Shell
    Heavy Duty Reaction Sun Gear Shell - limits cracking and splitting on bearing area
    Heavy Duty Input Shaft and Drum - limits stress cracks on drum, limits broken shaft
    Heavy Duyy Output Shaft - limits broken shafts
    Black Kevlar Lined 2-4 Band OR Kevlar (Std) 2-4 Band OR Alto 2-4 Band (Alto and Std Kevlar requires wider input drum) - greater holding capacity, less likely to break off band anchor than OE, Oversized Kevlar and Alto is 3/8 wider.

    3-4 Clutch Pack - Alto Red Eagles are my fav now. Slightly thinnner (.063 vs .069 I think) full faced clutches. Great backing material. Come with Kolene steels. 9 clutch pack.

    TransGo shift kit - .500 boost valve, HO Pump Spring, 1-2 accum spring, fixes problems like...3-4 burnup, 2-3 overlap, delay bangs, poor 3-2 kickdown
    Superior Intermediate Super Servo - greater band holding power, much better 2-3 shifts, excellent 1-2 shifts, 35% more apply than 'Vette servo
    Superior Overdrive Super Servo - greater holding power in 4th, much better 3-4 shifts, 10% more apply than OE part, comes with billet cover too

    I'd also consider some of the Sonnax bits like... aluminum 1-2 accumulator, aluminum forward accumulator (in valve body), ON/OFF fix for the TCC, etc. They make some VERY trick stuff.

    Also... 4th gear sucks. I'd look into blocking the 4th accumulator and tossing the check ball. Apparently you can drill some small holes in the rear of the input drum to prevent centrifugal apply of the clutches in 1st and 2 gears. That helps with wear

    Finally super hard shifts are bad even on the best internals. Just go with a fully installed TransGo, NO washers in the 1-2 accumulator, and both billet servos for an excellent shifting as well as not overly hard trans. Keep the feed holes in the valve body seperator plate per the instructions. If you use a big stall I'd up the feed hole sizes as stated.
    The superior man is modest in his speech, but exceeds in his actions. - Confucius

    "He who asks of life nothing but the improvement of his own nature, is less liable than anyone else to miss and waste life."- Henri Frederic Amiel

    '01 Chev Z71 LT - '85 BMW 745i TURBO - '88 BMW 750iL - '88 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - '79 MB 240D - '79 MB 280S Euro
    '80 MB 380SE-5.0 Euro - '85 MB 300SD - '87 MB 300SDL - 1990 MB 300SEL - '91 MB 300SE - '91 MB 560SEL

    Let's face it, the red hair... makes 'em wet.


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    600
    Hey Hit Man what would it cost to have my tranny built to the specs you listed? Would it hold up when towing?

    Thanks,
    Steven
    2002 Silverado 2500HD LB7 CCSB LT
    EFI Live by Rob at ATP, Edge CTS Insight DSP 5 control, S&B CAI, PPE boost valve, Pro Fab AIH, AirDog II 165, PPE WIF sensor delete plug, 5" stainless exhaust, Cognito braces & HD tie rods, H2's 315/70 R17 BFG's

    2004 Tahoe LT
    2006 Silverado Z71 LS
    1971 Chevy C10

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Springfield
    Posts
    473
    I dunno why he would even bother rebuilding that 60E junker if it broke.....hell I would even skip the 4L65E. If you want a die hard tranny that's gonna take an ass-whoopin and keep on kickin then go for the 4L80E. You can get a brand-new, "well refurbished", 80E on Ebay for $935 and it comes with a 2yr/25,000 mile warranty.......throw a trango-shift kit on it and a billet servo and take that Radix to the LIMIT.
    Just my
    FOR ALL YOUR WHEEL, TIRE, AND ACCESSORY NEEDS
    CONTACT: EPLEY'S TOUCH OF CLASSIC 1-270-843-6892
    OR TO GET ME PERSONALLY CALL: 1-615-943-6514



    2000 Chevy Silverado 4.8L RCSB: smoked UPD, Flowmaster exhaust, De-screened MAF, Nelson 93 hot tune. Upcoming installs: trans-go shift kit, Eaton posi, billet servo, ported and polished throttle body...Near future: 6.0/4L80E install with 150 wet shot

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6
    Holy ----! What a shopping list!
    Thanks for the feedback! Sounds like you've burned the midnight oil researching these inferior dinasaurs. Thanks!!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    127
    Originally posted by Chingon@May 6 2004, 05:38 PM
    Hit Man X is THE transmission guy. I think he knows what he's talking about.
    Regardless, whenever I see the word "Radix" and "tranny" together, I know the word "broken" or a derivative will be somewhere in there too.
    That goes for any power adder! Dont blame it on the product, blame it on the failed part. Weather you add a vortec, procharger, whipple, or NAAWWWSSS. The trans is the week link. You have to pay to play. I have seen trucks with 100+K on them with a radix on the stock trans. It is all in the maintenance and driving habits.
    Yeah I blew up 4 60-E's and I did not bitch once.....with more power you risk breaking parts, if you want to push it hard get a stronger trans. If you broke that thing at part throttle it was more than likely broken before and you just finished it off. They DO NOT break @ part throttle.
    2005 RCSB 4.8L TVS1900 9 psi
    2005 ECSB 4.8L TVS1900 5 psi

    That makes 9.6L @ 14psi

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Mansfield, Texas, USA
    Posts
    2,462
    2001si3rr@... parts and good labor? $2500+ I'd say. You don't want cheap ass labor, you want QUALITY labor. That's what costs money. Parts I'd say will be like $700-1200 ballpark.

    Yup, it will tow way better fully built than stock. More apply on the 2-4 band in OD and extra clutchs in the 3-4 pack is a BIG plus.



    kinjo1977... well considering the 4L80E is NOT a direct swap. It needs a new flexplate, harness, custom x-member, among other things. There is no billet servo as each gear is a set of clutches (there is a band but for for the gears)...it uses accumulators for the shifts. The TransGo will put that 4L80E to a whole new level of holding capacity...it's a great stepup.

    Also, if you don't plan much more than ~400-500rwhp a 4L60E is a good idea. The 4L80E takes more power to turn and is heavier with crappier gearing UNLESS you opt for a pricy wide-ratio gear set.



    wrencher1... Those are pretty much ALL the parts you want. I'd get everthing...do it once, do it right. Don't halfassed anything, you'll pay for it in the end. If a tranny place tries to talk you out of this stuff...do an about face and run!
    The superior man is modest in his speech, but exceeds in his actions. - Confucius

    "He who asks of life nothing but the improvement of his own nature, is less liable than anyone else to miss and waste life."- Henri Frederic Amiel

    '01 Chev Z71 LT - '85 BMW 745i TURBO - '88 BMW 750iL - '88 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - '79 MB 240D - '79 MB 280S Euro
    '80 MB 380SE-5.0 Euro - '85 MB 300SD - '87 MB 300SDL - 1990 MB 300SEL - '91 MB 300SE - '91 MB 560SEL

    Let's face it, the red hair... makes 'em wet.


  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    600

    Thumbs up

    Originally posted by Hit Man X@May 6 2004, 08:38 PM
    2001si3rr@... parts and good labor? $2500+ I'd say. You don't want cheap ass labor, you want QUALITY labor. That's what costs money. Parts I'd say will be like $700-1200 ballpark.

    Yup, it will tow way better fully built than stock. More apply on the 2-4 band in OD and extra clutchs in the 3-4 pack is a BIG plus.

    Wrencher1... Those are pretty much ALL the parts you want. I'd get everthing...do it once, do it right. Don't halfassed anything, you'll pay for it in the end. If a tranny place tries to talk you out of this stuff...do an about face and run!
    Do you know any shops that are capable of doing this work and doing a good job?
    2002 Silverado 2500HD LB7 CCSB LT
    EFI Live by Rob at ATP, Edge CTS Insight DSP 5 control, S&B CAI, PPE boost valve, Pro Fab AIH, AirDog II 165, PPE WIF sensor delete plug, 5" stainless exhaust, Cognito braces & HD tie rods, H2's 315/70 R17 BFG's

    2004 Tahoe LT
    2006 Silverado Z71 LS
    1971 Chevy C10

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    147
    www.flp2win.com

    Where are you from, maybe someone local ...

    Allen's buddy Joe with Jag performance builds a mean tranny so I hear. You might give him a call ... he's a site sponser here too.
    Arrival Blue 2003 Chevy Silverado RCSB (stepside) w/ 5.3 and an exhaust leak.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts