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Thread: how high can the 5.3 rev safely.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    McAllen, Texas
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    With a new cam going in here shortly i am curious about how high i can shift without cutting engine life in half or risking a rod failing?

    what do/have you all shifted at with a aftermarket cam?

    btw this cam is rated to 6300, but i dont know i wanna go that high..
    2001 Sierra
    HKE 408 H/C/I - 11.4 @ 117- old setup
    HKE 408 Procharged F1R Cog @ 17psi - new setup

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    South MS
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    129
    I dont see why you shouldnt be able to spin it to 6300 as long as your springs match your cam along with some hardened pushrods to be on the save side. I havent heard of any actuall rod failures but have heard that the rod bolts could be stronger. I believe you would have valve train problems before the bottom end gives out.
    2000 Silverado, RCSB, 2wd w/ a few mods.
    Best 1/4 ET: 12.09@111.22 (old 5.3L H/C/N2O setup)
    WRE 370 and Kenne Bell 2.8L installed and breaking trannys.


    2001 Tahoe LT 4wd
    Stock, daily driver and tow vehicle.


  3. #3
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    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    I'm sure you'll be fine, i see trucks reving that high all the time and staying together.

    what cam did you decide to go with? btw, like already said, go with some good springs and pushrods too.

    later,

    allen

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    McAllen, Texas
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    14
    i got the 216 220 525 532, i just bought some comp 918's and gonna go for comp hardened pushrods.

    give me some opinions on double roller timing chain and ported oil pump. since its gonna be open, do you think its worth it or not money/safety/performance wise..

    one last question, if i do rev it that high, i was also thinking about arp rod bolts, those easy to install?

    ok no more questions.. done for now.. lets hear some responses..
    2001 Sierra
    HKE 408 H/C/I - 11.4 @ 117- old setup
    HKE 408 Procharged F1R Cog @ 17psi - new setup

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    South MS
    Posts
    129
    You should be fine with the valvetrain componets you listed. If you have the money go ahead and swap out the oilpump and timing chain, I would go ahead and at least change the chain if you have some miles on the truck.
    You can change the rod bolts with the motor in the truck. You have to move some stuff out of the way and drop the oilpan. This would be much easier on a lift than in the driveway though.
    2000 Silverado, RCSB, 2wd w/ a few mods.
    Best 1/4 ET: 12.09@111.22 (old 5.3L H/C/N2O setup)
    WRE 370 and Kenne Bell 2.8L installed and breaking trannys.


    2001 Tahoe LT 4wd
    Stock, daily driver and tow vehicle.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,208
    thats nice to know about the rod bolts, i always wondered but never thought to ask...my pops has a lift but im afraid to tackle internals on my own(pops dont know about motors).

    as for the thread topic....just as the others said, with good springs and hardened p-rods....6300 is fine. Gen 5's(that doesnt sound right?) love the rpms!
    Hugger Orange 99 SS Hardtop #756
    485rwhp/440rwtq SAE

    http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j301/slmdls1/Signatures/hugger-prostar-sig.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Originally posted by rgvsierra@Dec 10 2003, 07:50 AM
    i got the 216 220 525 532, i just bought some comp 918's and gonna go for comp hardened pushrods.

    give me some opinions on double roller timing chain and ported oil pump. since its gonna be open, do you think its worth it or not money/safety/performance wise..

    one last question, if i do rev it that high, i was also thinking about arp rod bolts, those easy to install?

    ok no more questions.. done for now.. lets hear some responses..
    How many miles are on your truck, if over 50K or so , i'd change the pump, Melling has a new pump out that is supposedly a new cast, worked, ported, etc.

    I'd changed the chain if you have the $$.

    later,

    allen

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    L.A., California
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    Hey,
    I was reading I think on LS1tech.com some guy said you could take a 6.0 and throw in the 4.8 crank and it will rev forever....could you do this and then throw in that new turbo setup by cmotorsports? How would that work?
    '01 Sierra 4.8 SCSB
    4.10, Eaton posi, Nelson tune, 160 t-stat, K&N Intake, Magnaflow catback, Vig 3200, Transgo+billets, 100 NX wet shot

  9. #9
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    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    Originally posted by Chingon@Dec 11 2003, 01:40 AM
    Hey,
    I was reading I think on LS1tech.com some guy said you could take a 6.0 and throw in the 4.8 crank and it will rev forever....could you do this and then throw in that new turbo setup by cmotorsports? How would that work?
    I've been checking into this and I was wondering how it would rev and what kind of power it would make, wouldn't that be like the old days when guys swaped the 283's, 302's and 350's to make badass combos.

    later,

    allen

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