L94 & 6L80 Into My '92 2dr K1500 Blazer

[Nak]

Accelerator pedal is in. I got a bracket from Motech (LSWrangler.com) along with my harness. The bracket is designed to mount a DBW truck pedal in a jeep, but it worked great for my rig as well. I had to drill thee holes--obviously the jeep mounting holes didn't line up--but the angle of the bracket put the pedal in what I feel is an ideal position. I used the original pedal hold down plate as a guide to drill the holes, and then used it as a big washer to stabilize the bracket. I used 1" nylon spacers to space the Motech bracket out. A single washer between the bracket and the lower spacer was required to tweak the throttle position. Three M6 x 1.0 x 60mm bolts were required.

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[Nak]

Back to pulleys... BTW, I forgot to mention the black bolt that comes with the new tensioner. Make sure you use anti-seize on it every time you install it! The very first time I torqued it down it galled the aluminum! The silver color bolts on the engine and supplied by Holley did not show this behavior. I still used anti-seize for final installation.

[Nak]

Got the battery and windshield washer reservoir relocated. I had to wait on new parts, the driver's side battery mount for a 1992 does not leave room for the washer res under it. So I had to order the support for a 96 - 99 from GM. The battery tray itself is no longer available, but I was able to find a NOS one on ebay. The ECM will go where the reservoir was, above the ABS module. I have to find some soft rubber washers/spacers to isolate the ECM from vibration. Any ideas?

For the new battery tray and support, one hole on the radiator support was in the correct location already, all other mounting holes had to be located and drilled. Except for the bolt that supports the top of the fill tube. There was a ground bolt right where it needed to be. I'll relocate the ground.

I also finished organizing and trimming the old harness. I'm waiting on corrugated nylon tubing to finish up the harness. Amazing how hard it was to find. I ordered some from a jackass on Amazon, but when it showed up it was polyethylene. I order the good stuff from a place in MN; hopefully when it gets here Wednesday it really will be nylon.

Still to go this week: Finish the wiring. Relocate the trans crossmember. Get the steering column side of the cable shift linkage installed. Install the new fuel tank & run the fuel lines. Clean the fresh air vent intake & fix whatever the hell leaks there. Right now the plan is to drop in the engine, trans and transfer case on Sunday... If I don't get called in to work.

Also, since I'm going with dual exhaust, I need to figure out heat shielding for the driver's side of the trans--I have a factory shield for the passenger side--and the fuel & brake lines. Any ideas on this would be welcome too!!P1030626 (Custom).JPGP1030627 (Custom).JPGP1030629 (Custom).JPGP1030628 (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

BTW, The original Coil power has been relocated up to the ECM area, it will power the new harness. One of the old injector circuits will power the new front axle actuator. The '92's had a really crappy actuator that locked in the front axle. It relied on heating a wax pellet to actuate. Seriously? Anyways, I've installed a later one which uses a solenoid type activation. REALLY worthwhile upgrade by the way. It used to take ages to lock in in cold weather. Now it's damn near instant. I've powered it in the past with a direct battery connection; the injector circuit is fused and hot in start & run. Much better.

[Nak]

So much for cable shifting! I was planning to switch to cable shifting with a kit from "IdidIt", but there is no way to hook up the linkage to the steering column. There just isn't enough room between the steering column, the frame rail, the vacuum assist brake can and the exhaust. It works on the 6L80 side, so maybe in a different vehicle. After a few hours playing with that, I gave up. Went down to the local trans shop and took some careful measurements on a 4L60e. It turns out the shifting shaft on the 6L80 is 1 3/16" aft and 1/8" down compared to the same shaft on the 4L60. So I'm going to get 1 3/16" welded on to my original shift rod. After the trans is in, I'll see if the rod that goes across to the trans needs to be lengthened/shortened. Should have just done this to start with. The shifting shaft on the 6L80 is clocked identically to the 4L60, so this should work pretty well. At least I hope so!

Also, I was planning on running the charcoal canister from a 2012, another bad idea. Too big; no place to put it. There would be room with single exhaust, but with duals--no way. After further investigation the stock canister from 98-99 mounts right to my new battery support and will work just fine using the 98-99 vent solenoid as well. I'll run 5/8" line from the tank rollover valves to the can. Should work identical to 2012 setup; actually maintenance on the system will be easier. I'll need a new gas cap as well

[Nak]

Woo Hoo! Engine, trans & Transfer case goes in in the morning! I've so busy between work & the swap I haven't had time to post. I'll post pics later, but what I've done: Run a 5/8" line from the rollover valve to the engine bay for evap. Run the fuel lines. Finished organizing the '92 harness. I'll put on the corrugated loom after the engine is in. Dealt with a total length issue. (More on that later...) Designed the new shift linkage. Spent hours on the Trans mount to trans bolts torque spec. The service manual is wrong I believe. It says 49 ft pounds. No way. M8 bolts into aluminum? I don't believe it. I'm going with 36 and loctite 242. Trimmed the boss that I pointed out earlier on the block. I tried on a motor mount, less than a sixteenth of an inch clearance. After trimming, about 1/4". drilled new holes for the trans X-member and the shift linkage. Lots of misc stuff.

[mtcyclon]

Thanks for posting your experiences. Very interested in how the BCM integration will go. Question. Did you special order your harness from Motec or is it their 'off the shelf' Jeep swap harness?