L94 & 6L80 Into My '92 2dr K1500 Blazer

[Nak]

Just spent all day working on cleaning up the wiring from the old harness. The wires going to the old PCM will be cut off and labeled leaving a long pigtail for possible future use for whatever wires need to go from engine bay to cabin. Some wires need to stay--AC and the like. Thank god for wiring diagrams; there's been a couple of wires I might have cut that I actually need... There's been a couple of anomalies as well. A couple of different circuits listed as going to the same pin on the PCM. An error I'm sure. Also, the power--pink wire--to the coil shows NO FUSE? That seems unlikely, but the diagram shows the circuit coming from the ignition switch with no fuse protecting it--just the fusible link that protects the ignition switch itself. This might be true, but I'm going to power the switch and start pulling fuses to see if there is in fact a fuse protecting that circuit. I need to know, because I plan on powering the new harness with that circuit.

[Nak]

OK, due to having to work and Easter, I haven't got a lot done other than chase parts and finish the belt. I haven't cut the upper pulley off--yet. I talked to Holley, they wouldn't express an opinion either way. I'm leaving it for now...

All of the following ONLY refers to using the Holley AC bracket with GM brackets like mine. If you are using all Holley brackets you should probably just follow their directions. Also, I am using the later R4 compressor with the 4.5" pulley. If you have a 5" Pulley, as Holley recommends, then your measurements will be different. (Measured at the pulley surface.)

This is what I did: Holley's directions are not very explicit if you're using the GM brackets for the Alternator and the PS pump. If you look at the picture in this post, there are two pulleys by the AC compressor--upper and lower. The upper is the one I don't think you really need, looking at the picture you should be able to see why. When you buy the kit, it does not come with the tensioner--the bottom pulley--they specify what one to buy. They also specify a pulley you need to buy to replace the one that comes with the tensioner. You then take the one that was on the tensioner and use it as the upper pulley. They also list a second pulley you can use as the upper pulley; it is a smaller pulley that allows more clearance and is in fact required in certain setups. (The bigger one that came with the tensioner can interfere with some throttle bodies.)

The new lower pulley they specify is 76mm in diameter. That probably works great with all Holley brackets, but there are other choices. I ended up replacing it with a 70mm pulley. That allows me to not cut off the upper pulley boss and still use a common belt. It also puts the belt right in the middle of the acceptable range.

When you put the belt on, you check it with marks on the tensioner. Holley describes two marks in the directions--confusing because there are actually three marks. When you look at the tensioner, there is a reference mark. It lines up somewhere along the three reference marks. Here is what is not included in the Holley directions: The two marks closest together show the range for a brand new belt. As the belt ages and stretches, you use the two marks furthest apart to determine if the belt is still serviceable. If you use the pulleys specified by Holley, you can't find a belt that ends up in the "New" range. At least you can't with my setup. The Dayco 5061093 is too short and the Dayco 5061098 is too long. There is nothing in between. (Cross reference those numbers to see other brands; there is still nothing in between in any brand.) Even with the smaller Upper pulley you are out of luck. You could cut off the Upper Pulley Boss. Doing that results in the 5061093 fitting--barely. (BTW, the 5061093 is commonly available, the 5061098 is special order only everywhere that I tried.) However, if you switch to the smaller upper pulley that Holley specifies, AND you switch to a 70mm lower pulley, the 5061093 fits right in the middle of the acceptable range. I haven't run the engine yet, so this presupposes that I am getting the tension where it will be after the engine has run. I believe I have, but I'll have to verify after the L94 is running.

Anyways, I'm leaving the upper pulley boss intact because it seems like I get the best results this way. I may change my mind after I run the engine the first time.

I used Dayco parts because their website allows you to look up belt and pulley specifications.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=20
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=60

You need a single bearing 17mm ID pulley for both upper and lower pulleys. (A dual bearing pulley may or may not work; I have no idea.) The upper pulley is 6 rib, the lower pulley is smooth. Changing the diameter of the lower pulley makes a much bigger difference in belt length than changing the diameter of the upper pulley.

BTW, The Holley directions for determining belt length didn't work so well. They tell you to subtract 1 1/8 inches from your measurement. I got much closer by not making the subtraction. Why? using a string to measure belt length measures inside circumference. Belts are spec'd using outside circumference. Regardless, I only got close, be prepared to return the belt and try another one.

The easiest way to install the belt is to remove the upper pulley and then install the belt. Then install the upper pulley.

BTW, you can't play with the idler pulley by the alternator. no room to go bigger and going smaller would cause belt interference with an alternator mounting bolt.

Belt Routing (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

Accelerator pedal is in. I got a bracket from Motech (LSWrangler.com) along with my harness. The bracket is designed to mount a DBW truck pedal in a jeep, but it worked great for my rig as well. I had to drill thee holes--obviously the jeep mounting holes didn't line up--but the angle of the bracket put the pedal in what I feel is an ideal position. I used the original pedal hold down plate as a guide to drill the holes, and then used it as a big washer to stabilize the bracket. I used 1" nylon spacers to space the Motech bracket out. A single washer between the bracket and the lower spacer was required to tweak the throttle position. Three M6 x 1.0 x 60mm bolts were required.

P1030625 (Custom).JPGP1030623 (Custom).JPGP1030624 (Custom).JPGP1030622 (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

Back to pulleys... BTW, I forgot to mention the black bolt that comes with the new tensioner. Make sure you use anti-seize on it every time you install it! The very first time I torqued it down it galled the aluminum! The silver color bolts on the engine and supplied by Holley did not show this behavior. I still used anti-seize for final installation.

[Nak]

Got the battery and windshield washer reservoir relocated. I had to wait on new parts, the driver's side battery mount for a 1992 does not leave room for the washer res under it. So I had to order the support for a 96 - 99 from GM. The battery tray itself is no longer available, but I was able to find a NOS one on ebay. The ECM will go where the reservoir was, above the ABS module. I have to find some soft rubber washers/spacers to isolate the ECM from vibration. Any ideas?

For the new battery tray and support, one hole on the radiator support was in the correct location already, all other mounting holes had to be located and drilled. Except for the bolt that supports the top of the fill tube. There was a ground bolt right where it needed to be. I'll relocate the ground.

I also finished organizing and trimming the old harness. I'm waiting on corrugated nylon tubing to finish up the harness. Amazing how hard it was to find. I ordered some from a jackass on Amazon, but when it showed up it was polyethylene. I order the good stuff from a place in MN; hopefully when it gets here Wednesday it really will be nylon.

Still to go this week: Finish the wiring. Relocate the trans crossmember. Get the steering column side of the cable shift linkage installed. Install the new fuel tank & run the fuel lines. Clean the fresh air vent intake & fix whatever the hell leaks there. Right now the plan is to drop in the engine, trans and transfer case on Sunday... If I don't get called in to work.

Also, since I'm going with dual exhaust, I need to figure out heat shielding for the driver's side of the trans--I have a factory shield for the passenger side--and the fuel & brake lines. Any ideas on this would be welcome too!!P1030626 (Custom).JPGP1030627 (Custom).JPGP1030629 (Custom).JPGP1030628 (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

BTW, The original Coil power has been relocated up to the ECM area, it will power the new harness. One of the old injector circuits will power the new front axle actuator. The '92's had a really crappy actuator that locked in the front axle. It relied on heating a wax pellet to actuate. Seriously? Anyways, I've installed a later one which uses a solenoid type activation. REALLY worthwhile upgrade by the way. It used to take ages to lock in in cold weather. Now it's damn near instant. I've powered it in the past with a direct battery connection; the injector circuit is fused and hot in start & run. Much better.

[Nak]

So much for cable shifting! I was planning to switch to cable shifting with a kit from "IdidIt", but there is no way to hook up the linkage to the steering column. There just isn't enough room between the steering column, the frame rail, the vacuum assist brake can and the exhaust. It works on the 6L80 side, so maybe in a different vehicle. After a few hours playing with that, I gave up. Went down to the local trans shop and took some careful measurements on a 4L60e. It turns out the shifting shaft on the 6L80 is 1 3/16" aft and 1/8" down compared to the same shaft on the 4L60. So I'm going to get 1 3/16" welded on to my original shift rod. After the trans is in, I'll see if the rod that goes across to the trans needs to be lengthened/shortened. Should have just done this to start with. The shifting shaft on the 6L80 is clocked identically to the 4L60, so this should work pretty well. At least I hope so!

Also, I was planning on running the charcoal canister from a 2012, another bad idea. Too big; no place to put it. There would be room with single exhaust, but with duals--no way. After further investigation the stock canister from 98-99 mounts right to my new battery support and will work just fine using the 98-99 vent solenoid as well. I'll run 5/8" line from the tank rollover valves to the can. Should work identical to 2012 setup; actually maintenance on the system will be easier. I'll need a new gas cap as well