L94 & 6L80 Into My '92 2dr K1500 Blazer

[Nak]

Wiring pic... Nothing running down by the exhaust now. The starter solenoid is re-routed around and in from the front.P1030694 (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

Dropped her off at Get Bent Exhaust in Portland today! Getting a true dual, stainless steel, mandrel bent, crossover pipe behind the transfer case, dual tailpipes out behind the passenger side rear wheels, Dynomax VT mufflers, front and rear O2 sensors. Hoping to have her back on the 11th. Here's the before pics...P1030722 (Custom).JPGP1030721 (Custom).JPGP1030723 (Custom).JPG

[Blasphemy]

You live near Portland? I'm moving there, this time next year. Maybe we'll have to swap 4x4 swap stories lol. Good to hear you're almost done. Driving your truck after the swap will blow your mind as it did mine. I'm gonna post a video of it running and the complete swap procedures this weekend. Happy for ya man, it's well worth the cost and wait!!

[Nak]

Just looked at your build thread; very cool!

Have you checked emissions requirements in Oregon? If you're in the Portland area, you will probably need to pass, at least the first time? I don't know for sure, I live on the Washington side. (Washington REALLY sucks for swaps, Oregon is at least better than WA...) Anyways, I'd look in to it before you bring your truck up here. If you're going to have a problem, PM me; I may be able to at least point you in the right direction.

[Nak]

And the exhaust is done! You can't see the crossover in the pics, but it's there behind a crossmember. The crossover is band clamped on. I'll have unions installed once I'm sure I'm happy with the exhaust after it's running.
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[Nak]

I could never do this for a living, I am so damned slow! LOL.

Finished the transmission cooler. Factory hard lines to AN -6 fittings with an Improved Racing 165 degree thermostat and a B&M 30K cooler. Plumbed through the factory in radiator cooler. I wasn't going to use the in radiator cooler, but after a bunch of research I changed my mind. You can see I'll be doing the same with the engine oil cooler. (AN -8) I'll be using the Improved racing low profile 185 degree thermostat for the oil.

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[Nak]

Getting there bit by bit...

Installed my PML rear diff cover. Mounted the 2001 corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator. Modified my 2 wire alternator into a 4 wire alternator. (Computer controlled to standard voltage regulator.) It's basically a brand new 160 amp alternator, so well worth modifying over buying a new one.

I had to send my harness back to Motech to swap for a new one. The one I had was just too short between the engine and the ECM. Motech was very good about swapping the harness, especially when you consider I bought it months ago. Also, I'm having them modify it with breakouts for fuel level, vapor pressure and Evap purge control. The stock harness has pigtails for the latter two, but I want them to break out near the ECM and run the wires along the frame rail. The stock Motech has them coming out the rear of the trans wiring. That's fine for single exhaust, but it would go right over both my crossover pipe and the driver's side exhaust tailpipe where it crosses to the passenger side. So it'll be a week or two till I get the harness back.

I placed the 2012 surge tank. I'll have to zip tie it down until I get the custom AC hoses done. Still trying to decide what compressor I'll go with.P1030798 (Custom).JPGP1030800 (Custom).JPGP1030796 (Custom).JPGP1030797 (Custom).JPG

Not much to do left until I get the harness back. Run the fuel lines, run the oil cooler lines, hook up the windshield washers.

[Nak]

Oil cooler done. I was worried intitially that the thermostat wouldn't clear the front drive shaft, but there was plenty of clearance. Also got the front fuel line run. Up the frame rail and around the brake booster to keep it away from the exhaust. That's the last i'll do until I get my harness back from Motech.P1030804 (Custom).JPGP1030810 (Custom).jpgP1030808 (Custom).JPGP1030806 (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

I got some questions about the alternator mod. The 2007+ alternators are computer controlled. You can identify them by the two wire connector. I'm sure it's possible to hook them up to computer control, but I've not seen how and why bother? Just get a voltage regulator for a 2004 Silverado and replace the two wire voltage regulator. You'll have to do some cutting with a dremel, but no big deal. I used this guide: http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116343 My 2012 motor came with a 160 amp alternator with just 5 miles on it. Useless to me with the two wire connector. But 30 minutes of work and it functions just like a normal alternator.

[Nak]

Wow. Found this regulator. Fits the late model alternator while only modding the plastic cover? http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.ph...roduct_id=1696 http://www.langemachinery.com/Auto%2...=22756&xx=QDQX http://store.alternatorparts.com/d3579--.aspx Voltage regulator D3579. Looks like a much better solution.