L94 & 6L80 Into My '92 2dr K1500 Blazer

[Nak]

The internal linkage was not hooked up. Why that was so, I don't know. I do know that Stricker Auto on Ebay sold me the trans and it was supposed to be out of a running vehicle. It could not have been running in that condition. Somebody opened up the pan and most likely removed the valve body. Also, the GM Mechanic said there was no valid software on the TCM. He thought it was a new TCM. Why HPtuners was reporting an OS on the TCM I have no idea.

Anyways, she's running great right now! I still have a few cleanup items to do in the engine bay. Nothing that will keep me from driving it, but some things are mounted with zip ties; I need to make permanent mounts. Also, I still need to get Cruise and TU/TD functioning.

I have new mufflers coming today. Still Dynomax VT's, but a different model. The ones I have--the ones specified for dual exhaust on their website--have horrible drone. I called Dynomax and they told me the ones I have are wrong, I need a different model with a stronger spring for my engine. It would be nice if that information was on their website...

[Nak]

Well it's been a couple of months... The truck is running outstanding. I switched mufflers to a different Dynomax VT; simply outstanding sound now. Very quiet until you get on it and then a very nice roar. I'll post part numbers soon, suffice it to say that the Dynomax application chart is wrong. Even their tech support says so. Anyways, I switched to the mufflers specified for single exhaust for a 6.2L. The sound is just perfect with my dual exhaust.

I've got a lot to post; there's a lot I've learned and I want to put it up here for the next guy to use. It's been a hectic summer, but the rains are coming and I'll have time to post again soon.

I'm going to start a new thread on the electronic dash. I'm using it as my main cluster right now, but it's just mounted on a bracket. I'll fab up a permanent mount this winter. There's a lot I've learned about how to go about setting one of these up as a primary dash. Most people use them as a secondary display, so I've had to do a bit to get it right. The software developers have heeded a few of my suggestions, and the next version should be much better as a primary display. Meanwhile, the cost is much less than Dakota Digital and the display is gorgeous. (I've improved it from what I posted.) If you have the fabrication skills I think this is a great alternative to mechanical/stock gauges.

Here's the video of starting her up for the first time. It took a bit of time and she ran pretty rough for a few minutes. After that though, she ran just great! I'll get a 0 - 60 video up soon along with some pics of my fan control setup and cooling plumbing..


http://<a href="https://youtu.be/sUL...ULYU3LII5E</a>

[Nak]

Here's the latest version of my dash. Needle positions and numbers are random and nonsensical in these screen shots. The upper four gauges turn red individually when out of safe operating limits. The crosshatch pattern over the speedo and the red push button top center appear if the connection is lost to the ECM. Pushing the button initiates a connection attempt immediately, or one will be made automatically in 30 seconds. The low fuel warning appears at and below 3 gallons fuel remaining. 0 Gallons displayed is when the engine dies due to fuel starvation, no reserve, no guessing exactly how much fuel is left. Touching the upper half of the speedo switches to Metric. Touching the A MPG window resets average MPG. DTE (Distance To Empty) is based off fuel remaining and Average MPG displayed. Touching the Trip Odometer resets that to 0. The large digit on the left of the tach is the commanded gear. I removed Engine Oil Temp because there is no sensor--it's calculated by the ECM. Inaccurate because I have a large oil cooler the ECM doesn't know about. "V4 Mode Active" appears above the clock--along with a blue light right below the "I MPG" window--when DOD kicks in.

It's running off of a Bluetooth connection now, but will be hard wired off of a USB connection when I mount the cluster permanently. The USB connection is faster--smoother needle movement and faster connections--and more reliable. The Samsung Tab S 10.5 is easily visible under all lighting conditions including direct sunlight with these colors. It is especially attractive under moderate and lower light levels.

Anyways, that's it so far! I'll include a video later.Dash 1 (Custom).jpgDash 2 (Custom).jpg

[Nak]

As far as your oil pan goes, you can section an inch out of it as I did on my 1990 p/u. You will lose one quart if oil capacity. I carefully cut the bottom off with a sawzall.retaining the drain plug,then measured up 1 inch and cut that section out and then found a guy to weld it back together.Then modify the oil pickup tube.Your oil pan not hang below the crossmember. Hope this helped.

Thanks! I was thinking of doing just that; good to hear it can work. I was also thinking of getting a CTS-V pan and welding up a bung that I could drill and tap for the regulator valve. BTW, is yours a 4x4 or 2WD?

Honestly I'm not sure how different the L94 is from the LQ9, but that's what I just put in my truck with no issues as far as the oil pan goes. Not sure if it makes a difference but I'm lifted 6" on 35" tires. I can get pics to you and possibly some measurements this weekend when I'm home, if that helps at all. All I know is that I have so much room everywhere it's like the truck was made for a bigger engine.

Thanks! Pictures would be great! Maybe if you could measure your pan too? It's weird, all of the info I've seen both here and over at LS1Tech.com show the truck pan as 8.25" deep. Mine is 7.5" inches deep. Did the pans change somewhere along the way?

Yeah, the exhaust quote is spendy, mandrel bending ain''t cheap in this town. I'm considering buying a Y pipe with cats, those go for about $700 or so. Then just having the Cat back section fabricated. The problem with that is the pipe goes under the tranny pan, so to change the tranny fluid you have to drop the exhaust! I'll have another shop quote me a price without the mandrel bending, but I think I'd lose a lot with crush bends?

Thanks for all the replys and help everybody!

[Blasphemy]

I don't know why it uploads the picture sideways and I don't know how to fix it, but hopefully you get an idea of how much room there is around the oil pan. I never once worried about it hitting anything. My engine came out of a stock escalade and it fits in my lifted truck with plenty of room to spare

[Nak]

Thanks for the pics! That's a different pan than mine for sure... Any chance you could measure from the block to the lowest ponit on the pan? I'd really appreciate it if you could! Thanks again!

[Blasphemy]

I forgot to measure my pan (and I live 2.5 hours from where my truck is parked) but I found this, so maybe it will help you. http://www.improvedracing.com/tech/L...dimensions.php

[Nak]

Thanks for the link! It's still confusing though, it matches the other information I've found. It shows the truck pan as 8.34" tall, but mine is 7.5". Also, the pic of your pan doesn't match the truck pan; yours looks like the CTS-V/LS2/LS6 pan. Which would mean yours is only 6.7" deep if it is. Without the lift kit, that bracket to the right of your pan is the low point, if yours is a CTS-V pan that means my pan will be about an inch lower making it the low point. BTW, what transmission is that in the pic?

[Blasphemy]

Yeah as far as I know my engine is out of a 2005 Escalade which would make it the LQ9, unless somebody changed the pan to an LS oil pan at some point, but I doubt it. I wish I had the LS2 or LS6 but that would've cost me at least double what I paid! The trans I have is the 4L60E that was already in my '98 truck. But I'll be building a badass 4L80E for it when I get back from Korea this time next year.