L94 & 6L80 Into My '92 2dr K1500 Blazer

[Nak]

Thanks John! More pics soon... I figure no one wants to see the greasy old engine or the greasy engine bay... LOL! Once I get the engine bay clean I'll start posting pics of my progress.

[Nak]

I put the radiator and electric fans in place to see how the fans would fit. Looks pretty good; shouldn't be too hard to install. I'll have to trim the shroud where it hits the steering box. Also, it sit's out about 3/8" on either side. I could trim the top and bottom to get it flush, but on the bottom I'd be trimming away part of the support for the lower mounts. On the plus side it would probably get it off the steering box. I could also just use foam strips to seal the sides. I'll decide on that later. Also, the power steering lines need to be bent out of the way. P1030591 (Medium).jpgP1030595 (Medium).jpgP1030594 (Medium).JPGP1030592 (Medium).jpgP1030593 (Medium).jpg

[Nak]

Here's the new motor mounts. The base of the mounts is convex and flattens out when torqued down. New to me, but apparently as designed.0007 New Motor Mounts (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

Got the Holley AC bracket on. Very nice; looks factory. There is one issue. If you look at the idler pulley I circled in red, you can see it is not needed. If you use all of the Holley LS brackets, the belt comes up to the top of the AC compressor from the water pump; so it is needed in that case. However, if you're only using the Holley AC bracket and the rest of the brackets are GM, the belt routes from under the upper right idler pulley to the top of the AC. The circled pulley actually hurts you in this case. It put's the belt closer to being up in the way, it reduces contact with the AC pulley and it adds one more pulley that can fail.

I haven't decided for sure yet, but I think I'll cut off the boss that holds the red circled pulley.Holley Brakets (Custom).jpgPulley (Custom).jpgGM Brackets (Custom).jpg

[mtcyclon]

Before you remove that pulley, double check the belt routing. Does Holley offer any information on the routing?

[Nak]

Only if you are using all Holley Accessory brackets. The stock belt routing is required with the GM Accessory brackets--with a small modification to include the AC pulley. Holley has no info on routing if using the GM brackets. Not a big deal, there is only one possible way to route the belt. With the stock GM brackets, the belt MUST come from the bottom of the driver's side idler pulley over to the Passenger side Idler pulley and across the AC pulley, like I show in the Pics. There is no other way. With the Holley brackets the belt comes from the bottom of the water pump pulley and up to the passenger side idler pulley. In that instance, the passenger side idler is absolutely required. I'm going to call Holley before I cut the boss off the bracket, but the more I look at it the more I'm convinced it's the way to go. It'll work with that Pulley there, It looks like a better option not to have it though.

[Nak]

Just spent all day working on cleaning up the wiring from the old harness. The wires going to the old PCM will be cut off and labeled leaving a long pigtail for possible future use for whatever wires need to go from engine bay to cabin. Some wires need to stay--AC and the like. Thank god for wiring diagrams; there's been a couple of wires I might have cut that I actually need... There's been a couple of anomalies as well. A couple of different circuits listed as going to the same pin on the PCM. An error I'm sure. Also, the power--pink wire--to the coil shows NO FUSE? That seems unlikely, but the diagram shows the circuit coming from the ignition switch with no fuse protecting it--just the fusible link that protects the ignition switch itself. This might be true, but I'm going to power the switch and start pulling fuses to see if there is in fact a fuse protecting that circuit. I need to know, because I plan on powering the new harness with that circuit.

[Nak]

OK, due to having to work and Easter, I haven't got a lot done other than chase parts and finish the belt. I haven't cut the upper pulley off--yet. I talked to Holley, they wouldn't express an opinion either way. I'm leaving it for now...

All of the following ONLY refers to using the Holley AC bracket with GM brackets like mine. If you are using all Holley brackets you should probably just follow their directions. Also, I am using the later R4 compressor with the 4.5" pulley. If you have a 5" Pulley, as Holley recommends, then your measurements will be different. (Measured at the pulley surface.)

This is what I did: Holley's directions are not very explicit if you're using the GM brackets for the Alternator and the PS pump. If you look at the picture in this post, there are two pulleys by the AC compressor--upper and lower. The upper is the one I don't think you really need, looking at the picture you should be able to see why. When you buy the kit, it does not come with the tensioner--the bottom pulley--they specify what one to buy. They also specify a pulley you need to buy to replace the one that comes with the tensioner. You then take the one that was on the tensioner and use it as the upper pulley. They also list a second pulley you can use as the upper pulley; it is a smaller pulley that allows more clearance and is in fact required in certain setups. (The bigger one that came with the tensioner can interfere with some throttle bodies.)

The new lower pulley they specify is 76mm in diameter. That probably works great with all Holley brackets, but there are other choices. I ended up replacing it with a 70mm pulley. That allows me to not cut off the upper pulley boss and still use a common belt. It also puts the belt right in the middle of the acceptable range.

When you put the belt on, you check it with marks on the tensioner. Holley describes two marks in the directions--confusing because there are actually three marks. When you look at the tensioner, there is a reference mark. It lines up somewhere along the three reference marks. Here is what is not included in the Holley directions: The two marks closest together show the range for a brand new belt. As the belt ages and stretches, you use the two marks furthest apart to determine if the belt is still serviceable. If you use the pulleys specified by Holley, you can't find a belt that ends up in the "New" range. At least you can't with my setup. The Dayco 5061093 is too short and the Dayco 5061098 is too long. There is nothing in between. (Cross reference those numbers to see other brands; there is still nothing in between in any brand.) Even with the smaller Upper pulley you are out of luck. You could cut off the Upper Pulley Boss. Doing that results in the 5061093 fitting--barely. (BTW, the 5061093 is commonly available, the 5061098 is special order only everywhere that I tried.) However, if you switch to the smaller upper pulley that Holley specifies, AND you switch to a 70mm lower pulley, the 5061093 fits right in the middle of the acceptable range. I haven't run the engine yet, so this presupposes that I am getting the tension where it will be after the engine has run. I believe I have, but I'll have to verify after the L94 is running.

Anyways, I'm leaving the upper pulley boss intact because it seems like I get the best results this way. I may change my mind after I run the engine the first time.

I used Dayco parts because their website allows you to look up belt and pulley specifications.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=20
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=60

You need a single bearing 17mm ID pulley for both upper and lower pulleys. (A dual bearing pulley may or may not work; I have no idea.) The upper pulley is 6 rib, the lower pulley is smooth. Changing the diameter of the lower pulley makes a much bigger difference in belt length than changing the diameter of the upper pulley.

BTW, The Holley directions for determining belt length didn't work so well. They tell you to subtract 1 1/8 inches from your measurement. I got much closer by not making the subtraction. Why? using a string to measure belt length measures inside circumference. Belts are spec'd using outside circumference. Regardless, I only got close, be prepared to return the belt and try another one.

The easiest way to install the belt is to remove the upper pulley and then install the belt. Then install the upper pulley.

BTW, you can't play with the idler pulley by the alternator. no room to go bigger and going smaller would cause belt interference with an alternator mounting bolt.

Belt Routing (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

Got the heater hoses done. I used a stock 2012 return line and standard hose for the hot line. The stock return line has a 3/4" connection to the motor and a 5/8" connection to the heater core. Perfect. It also has a tee to the surge tank. (I'll be running the 2012 surge tank.) The hot line is 5/8" out of the motor and 3/4" into the core. I just used an adapter to mate the two.

I also got a bunch of minor details done, tons left to go! Still on track for the exhaust on Thursday.P1030688 (Custom).JPGP1030689 (Custom).JPGP1030690 (Custom).JPGP1030692 (Custom).JPGP1030693 (Custom).JPG

[Nak]

Wiring pic... Nothing running down by the exhaust now. The starter solenoid is re-routed around and in from the front.P1030694 (Custom).JPG