You'll need an 80e yolk and about 2" taken out of your driveshaft.
You'll need an 80e yolk and about 2" taken out of your driveshaft.
99 rcsb silverado...... boosted.
Seems like a few people haven't had to modify the driveshaft. Something about shortening the yoke?Originally Posted by jansen
ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06
waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam
i for sure had to shorten my shaft. check my thread. but i have a 95... not a 02... but yes cross member will have to be modded. and wiring will need to be done. trans lines tweaked. new yolk at a minimum depend on d shaft you decide to use.
for reference, i put an lq9 in mine, kept the stock 60e (220k miles) that still worked like a champ behind the tbi, and it lasted about 2 months (after 6.0 swap) before i couldnt hit the gas too hard without it slipping. my .02 since you have 6.0, plan for the 80. run the 60 you got now while you get parts for the swap. but trust me, it wont last long if you do more than grandma driving...
oh and there are like 4 yokes for the 80's... be sure to get the right one
Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without
My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
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Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!
You hafta change cross member good thing about yours is you can cut the center out and just turn it around backwards and weld it back up, and you dont have you ds shortened buy the 1350 80e yoke its shorter so itll work, I did this on my 05 and used an 02 crossmember and everything turned out right.
THEY CALL ME G.
AZRAEL
2017 RZR 1000 2 SEATER
2023 RZR 1000 XP 4
2008 LTZ DURAMAX 3500
2023 300S 5.7
2023 BUICK ENCORE[/B]
The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.
I'd go ahead and do the 80e. My 60e lasted only a couple months behind my lq4, that was with mostly moderate driving. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and upgrade the tranny now. Just my 2 cents.
02 chevy 1500 ecsb. 02 lq4 6.0, nelson tuned.(sold but still in the family)
89 chevy 1500 rcsb -under construction-
But you're still having to cut off the yolk and weld the new one back on, right? Why not just shorten it at that same time? Does it matter?
No its pressed on pressed off. Machine shop charged me 5 bucks.
THEY CALL ME G.
AZRAEL
2017 RZR 1000 2 SEATER
2023 RZR 1000 XP 4
2008 LTZ DURAMAX 3500
2023 300S 5.7
2023 BUICK ENCORE[/B]
The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.
A 60E or 65E CAN be a good transmission IF built right, but finding a builder is the problem. I have a 60E in my 9 sec Camaro and in my 12 sec nitrous truck...all has been good with my build. I will agree the 80e is a better trans but they do have their fair share of problems as well. It depends on how hard you will be on it and your end goals and if you trust a local builder.
As far as your 4.3L 60E I bet its near the end of its life if its a stock unit and hasn't been build. If you can get a good working 65E that will be a great start , them come with 5 pinion planets from the start and hardened output/input depending on years...
If you stick with the 60E I can send you a build list if you need and post up more info on the entire setup if you will
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