If you are getting it for a good price go for it. Stock setups can go that mileage without too many issues. If you can fix one I would say no problem as parts are everywhere. Think of it as recycling! LOL!
If you are getting it for a good price go for it. Stock setups can go that mileage without too many issues. If you can fix one I would say no problem as parts are everywhere. Think of it as recycling! LOL!
2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
I say do it if you an do all the labor yourself.
With that many miles that SUV should be worth very little; don't get me wrong that is great for ppl like us.
Get the price down as far as possible and then go spend about a grand if u can on maintenance parts.
O2's. fuel pump. Brakes. Hoses. Bushings. Steering. Shocks. Worn out interior pieces like buttons. Etc and you'll have a good truck!
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'94 Chevy Truck: 8.9 et, 408 twins
Pros-cheap cons-you gotta work on it
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The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.
Well, the price is under $4k. That seems pretty reasonable to me. Hah, that's a good way of thinking of it.
Pulling the motor and dropping the tranny can be done at my buddies shop, everything else can be done at my house.
The one thing that concerns me is "when" it will happen and being prepared for it.
That is my plan, preventative maintenance, get it all done before anything happens.
Both very true.
Thanks guys, I appreciate your info
The when is a total roll of the dice. These motors are known to run for 300k+ however the valve train is notorious for random failure. Bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, loose or failed timing chains and rockers losing needle bearings are common in these motors at any age. The bottom end on the other hand likely will never need to be touched. The trans is a time bomb ready to explode from the day it rolls of the factory assembly line. Some will last 15k others 150k. I would plan on an 80e swap as soon as funds will allow. The stock posi G80 or known as the grenade 80 is also a known weak point. The fuel pump may likely need to be replaced. That is a good starting point. IMO 4k is a good price and with proper care and maintaince could be a bad ass ride for many years to come.
ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06
waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam
Nice, that is another option. I had found an 01 with 185k miles for $6900. Its a bit more than I wanted to spend but you get the 6.0, 4l80e and 14 bolt rear. It may be worth it in the end and its 2wd.
I have read so much about these motors being abused and lasting hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Its the tranny I am more worried about than anything.
That is when the 01 HD Yukon XL comes into play. Is it worth the extra cash for the added power stronger tranny and bigger rear end? Also, the gearing, 4:10s aren't so pleasant for daily use. I'm thinking about swapping them out for 3:73s, if I go that route.
Thanks for the info guys
I'm thinking swap to 3:73s and be done with it
4.10s are actually great especially in that big freaking pig. I would say the 80e and stronger rear are defiantly worth it. Think about it this way 4k vs 6900 is 2900 of difference. The cost of a 6.0, trans and rear swap will be a lot more than 3k after odds and ends.
ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06
waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam