Do you still have to notch the Frame?

[badseed91]

I just bought a 65,000 mile lq4 and 4l80e from a wrecked 02 2500 HD. The guy i bought it from gave me thw wirring harness,ecm,all accessories,exhaust manifolds and pipes,interior wirring harness and guage cluster for 2000 bucks.

I want to put this engine in my C-10 since it has 4x4" holes in the side of the motor. Does anyone know if i have to notch my frame to fit the a/c compressor on the late model motor? Is there an aftermarket acessory drive system that mounts the a/c compressor out of the way?

Also does anyone know if there are aftermarket motor mounts to do the swap? Also how hard is it to wire the engine wiring and ecm to work in my truck?

I know i need a high pressure fuel pump to work. Since my truck has dual tanks i was either going to put a suburban or blazer fuel tank inbetween the frame rails in the rear for better weight distribution and use one pump or use both tanks and one pump after the fuel take selector valve. has anyone done this?

I was also planning on building a custom dash using late model guages. Does anyone have any info on using the late model guages in a late model truck? Do i have to use the late model steering column to get the gear selector to read right?

Has anyone put a 6.0 in a square body before? Does anyone know what kind of track times to expect?

If anyone can help please let me know.

[AFSP1211]

Talk to 1badc10 He put a 5.3 in one. Don't know if he's running a/c though

[1BADC10]

WOW... Thought I was the only one converting a "box-body" truck. Never guessed I'd be giving tips on it.

Well... My 5.3L/4L60E project has slowed down a bit (baby on the way). I will say that things have started to progress a bit. If you use S&P's conversion adapters the recommended way, they should seat the 6.0L close to the firewall. The benefits of doing this you shouldn't have to notch the frame rail to get the stock manifolds (or shorty headers) to fit. There's a possibility that longtubes may fit, but Pacesetters will not (expecially if you're running EGR/AIR). The down side (at least for me) is that the stock compressor will not fit (motor mounts & bracketry interference). Fortunately, Sanden compressors are popular, but are priced above my budget (for now). I used conversion plates differently to move the powertrain forward about 4". My stock compressor fits, but had to notch the frame rail to make stock manifolds fit. Check the "5.3L (LM7) ..." thread. I posted as many pics as I could. Truck's not driveable yet, but the engine does live.

As for wiring... if you're looking to "s*** & git", then talk to farmtruc (Allen - Nelson Performance). From what I hear, he makes one helluva harness, and should be a clean & quick installation compared to using stock components. I think he may even re-work a stock harness for ya. Again, budget was my concern, and I am to the point where my wiring needs to be cleaned up (for neatness), but the engine will fire and run great once I get VATS turned off on the PCM.

Which brings me to my last point for the time being... If you haven't gotten your PCM tuned yet, spend the money, and let Allen tune it for ya. I hear he's great about customer satisfaction. Most of the other guys (& maybe gals) on this forum can tell ya more. Hit me up if you have anymore questions... glad to assist in making sure my mistakes aren't replicated by others.

*eidt* This should also be some good reading material... CTW thread for Engine Swap


-Ron

[beertestr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(badseed91 &#064; May 1 2006, 01&#58;40 AM) [snapback]51723[/snapback]</div>

I want to put this engine in my C-10 since it has 4x4" holes in the side of the motor. Does anyone know if i have to notch my frame to fit the a/c compressor on the late model motor? Is there an aftermarket acessory drive system that mounts the a/c compressor out of the way?

Also does anyone know if there are aftermarket motor mounts to do the swap? Also how hard is it to wire the engine wiring and ecm to work in my truck?

I know i need a high pressure fuel pump to work. Since my truck has dual tanks i was either going to put a suburban or blazer fuel tank inbetween the frame rails in the rear for better weight distribution and use one pump or use both tanks and one pump after the fuel take selector valve. has anyone done this?

I was also planning on building a custom dash using late model guages. Does anyone have any info on using the late model guages in a late model truck? Do i have to use the late model steering column to get the gear selector to read right?

Has anyone put a 6.0 in a square body before? Does anyone know what kind of track times to expect?

If anyone can help please let me know.
[/b]

Wiring on your truck is pretty easy. To get it to run, the wiring is basically power and grounds. The hardest part will be modifying your harness. I am working on a wiring kit for 88-98 trucks, and am also looking at square body trucks. Looking at my buddies 82, and looking at his service manual things are pretty straight forward.

As for the PRNDL working with the late model cluster, there is no relation to the column, except clearance of course. The PRNDL state comes off the NSBU switch, which is the electrical switch that the gear selector shaft goes through on the side of the trans. Getting the rest of the guages to work will require a pigtail from the cluster, and a pigtail from the oval-ish 16 pin black connector on the engine harness. It&#39;s black, oval-ish, and has a purple connector on the inside.

Where do you live? I am looking for a guinea pig to develop my harness.

[1BADC10]

Hey.... guinea pig here&#33;

[kwkenuf]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Beertestr &#064; May 1 2006, 10&#58;41 AM) [snapback]51751[/snapback]</div>

As for the PRNDL working with the late model cluster, there is no relation to the column, except clearance of course. The PRNDL state comes off the NSBU switch, which is the electrical switch that the gear selector shaft goes through on the side of the trans. Getting the rest of the guages to work will require a pigtail from the cluster, and a pigtail from the oval-ish 16 pin black connector on the engine harness. It&#39;s black, oval-ish, and has a purple connector on the inside.
[/b]

Since the late model dash/gauges are digital, would you not need the Body Control Module to make this all work? I don&#39;t believe wiring straight from the engine harness will get it, unless you are assuming that the BCM is still in the system.... The reason I ask is I was playing around with the idea of putting a Escalade dash in my &#39;65 but after looking at the schematics, I didn&#39;t want to include yet another black box in my conversion cost.... Please correct me if I am wrong.. (hey, it happens)

[1BADC10]

Good question. I was under the impression that the PCM provided the info needed to operate the gauges. I&#39;ll check alldata to be sure.

[kwkenuf]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 &#064; May 1 2006, 12&#58;39 PM) [snapback]51760[/snapback]</div>

Good question. I was under the impression that the PCM provided the info needed to operate the gauges. I&#39;ll check alldata to be sure. [/b]

The info does come into the PCM individually then I believe it is combined into the digital datastream provided to the BCM which then goes to the gauge cluster. I was unsure what the BCM added to the mix (if anything.... my schematics get very vague when illustrating logic circuits)

[1BADC10]

Yeah... I remember seeing logic circuits flow box in the schematics. No details on logic, but that was seen in the cluster schematic. This gives me the impression that logic circuits are in the cluster, not the BCM. After I get through helping my son with homework, I&#39;ll take a better look. I may post what diagrams I have.

[kwkenuf]

Fair enuf... I&#39;ll check mine when I get home tonight and post up what I got....