93 silverado 5.3 4l60 swap

[Bear]

+1, Also if you are using the Dirty Dingo adapter mounts you may be able to use the factory location for the crossmember. I spoke with one the the Dirty Dingo guys and he informed me if using the mounts for your model truck truck they supply (part number DD-2550C, my truck is the same as yours) you can position the engine to keep your factory transmission crossmember location. In the end, the best result is to put the engine in the best location possible, if you have to redrill holes, its no big deal, do what works best. Also, is the transmission you are using with the new 5.3 or an older 4L60 or newer one that was mated with the engine? If it is an older 4L60 there is a .400" difference between the 2 and it will require a spacer that is easily aquireable and/or can also be made if you have some metal fabrication skills. Good luck with your swap. I have one going on right now on my 94' Silverado.

[Wagonbacker9]

For simplicity of driveline, your best bet is to get the engine settled in place, bolt in the trans mount, and then snug down the engine mounts. Otherwise you have to start playing with driveshaft lengths.

[Bear]

I agree most with Wagonbacker, using dirty dingo mounts should allow you to place the engine where the factory transmission placement belongs requiring no driveshaft mods. When you start messing with the drive shaft you can miscalculate the pinion angle or the correct amount of length needed. A couple of inches too short or long can result in either the drive shaft falling off or bending in an instance of great suspension travel also damaging the trans. I have seen this more often in the four wheeling world but never in everyday use if you do not tow on a regular basis. The dirty dingo mounts as mentioned above allow a total of 3" of travel, 1 and 1/2 foward and backwards. This should make factory line up as you started with. If it doesn't, just post what you have and go from there. Drilling new holes is no big deal, just as long as you are not moving far from what you started and wanting to keep your factory drive shaft.

[bagged chevy]

thanks you guys for the help thats exactly what i was looking for i should be starting this swap in a week or 2 super excited im just waiting for the mount to get here i will keep you guys posted with the swap and if there is anything i might need to know please let me know try to make it as smooth as possible... here are some pics of my truck before the swap..

[Bear]

Wow, that thing is super clean and low! An LS will look great in there.

[bagged chevy]

thanks tirebite yea has a good of money invested into it so thats why ive decided to go ls swap hopefully everything goes smooth

[bagged chevy]

hey have a couple of other question about the swap.

1. what oil pan will mount on to my truck when you are going to run a 5.3 on a 93 silverado?
2. i currently have a gear box on my 93 when i swap to the newer motor what route should i take for power steering???

thanks for the help everything really help.

[fabianss357]

Welcome! Nice truck! There's a ton of very useful info on this forum.
Most of your swap has been discussed in one form or another and if
you run into any problems chances are someone knows the answer.

Does your truck lay full frame?
If your front crossmember is laying your going to have to swap the truck oil pan out for a shorter pan.
The f-body (camaro/ firebird) ls1 pan is perfect but they are pricey.
The one I plan on using is the cts-v pan, a bit cheaper and pretty accessible.
I did all the measurements and it should clear by an inch on my setup.
I'm also bodydropping my truck 3.5 inches so I have other clearance issues.
The muscle car pan (aka hummer h3) by my measurements will bearly hang below the crossmember.
The engine mounts have some to do with this though so you will have to check your clearance.
I'm fabricating my own mounts to get the engine as low in there as possible.

Good luck and post more pics!

Edit, the 5.3 pump and lines are nearly identical to your original power steering lines.
Just bend them a tad and bolt them in.