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Thread: Cam swap for 5.3

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  1. #1
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    A cam that small won't give up low end especially on a 112. I've got that cam's big brother in my 6.0 (232/234 .595/.598 112+4) and its got a fat bottom end. I'll have numbers to back up that statement next week.

    Agreed though, springs are NECESSARY, and you're not going to like how it drives without a stall. In my 5.3 cam selection I'm looking seriously at a reverse split.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9 View Post
    A cam that small won't give up low end especially on a 112. I've got that cam's big brother in my 6.0 (232/234 .595/.598 112+4) and its got a fat bottom end. I'll have numbers to back up that statement next week.

    Agreed though, springs are NECESSARY, and you're not going to like how it drives without a stall. In my 5.3 cam selection I'm looking seriously at a reverse split.
    Well liie i said im gonna wait til the 60e goes and then im gonna drop in an 80e. Cuz i dont have the dough to do both right now. What does a reverse split do for you?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clayman View Post
    Well liie i said im gonna wait til the 60e goes and then im gonna drop in an 80e. Cuz i dont have the dough to do both right now. What does a reverse split do for you?
    The longer intake lobe helps extend the powerband, and the shorter exhaust lobe basically opens a little late (compared to a single profile cam), and it closes a little sooner as well, reducing overlap and improving idle. A very basic cam statement is that the intake lobe makes the power, and the exhaust profile determines drivability. This is not ENTIRELY accurate, but if you think about the way the engine breathes, it makes sense.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9 View Post
    The longer intake lobe helps extend the powerband, and the shorter exhaust lobe basically opens a little late (compared to a single profile cam), and it closes a little sooner as well, reducing overlap and improving idle. A very basic cam statement is that the intake lobe makes the power, and the exhaust profile determines drivability. This is not ENTIRELY accurate, but if you think about the way the engine breathes, it makes sense.
    That makes sense. The more i think about it tho im not sure i want a stall converter because i do pull a 8500 lb trailer occasionally and i dont want it to always be screamin to haul it. So im thinkin the comp xr265hr14 is what i want. Its the second cam i speced above. 212/218 .522/.529 114lsa and while im gonna be in the motor ill pull the heads swap out springs to ls6 and port amd polish the runners and mill them just a tad to raise compression to 10.5 +/- how much would it take as far as milling the heads to raise compression from 9.4:1 to 10.5? Anybody have any input?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clayman View Post
    That makes sense. The more i think about it tho im not sure i want a stall converter because i do pull a 8500 lb trailer occasionally and i dont want it to always be screamin to haul it. So im thinkin the comp xr265hr14 is what i want. Its the second cam i speced above. 212/218 .522/.529 114lsa and while im gonna be in the motor ill pull the heads swap out springs to ls6 and port amd polish the runners and mill them just a tad to raise compression to 10.5 +/- how much would it take as far as milling the heads to raise compression from 9.4:1 to 10.5? Anybody have any input?
    Totally depends on your setup.. rod length, displacement, combustion chamber CCs...

    As for changing the springs, I just got into this debate in another thread, there is nothing stopping you from changing the springs with the heads on the block. And there are plenty of stalls out there that are fine for towing, as long as you have a good cooler.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9 View Post
    Totally depends on your setup.. rod length, displacement, combustion chamber CCs...

    As for changing the springs, I just got into this debate in another thread, there is nothing stopping you from changing the springs with the heads on the block. And there are plenty of stalls out there that are fine for towing, as long as you have a good cooler.
    Right. I just read where super chevy did a port and polish job on a set of 5.3 heads and got almost 40hp gain. So i just thot i might do it all at once. But the truck came from the factory in 1994 with a towing package so it has a cooler already on it. I really think thats why the old 4l60 lasted as long as it did. But this is all subject to change because super chevy also stroked the 5.3 to a 383 and had it layin down over 550 hp and torque so im just toyin with all kinds of ideas right now.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clayman View Post
    Right. I just read where super chevy did a port and polish job on a set of 5.3 heads and got almost 40hp gain. So i just thot i might do it all at once. But the truck came from the factory in 1994 with a towing package so it has a cooler already on it. I really think thats why the old 4l60 lasted as long as it did. But this is all subject to change because super chevy also stroked the 5.3 to a 383 and had it layin down over 550 hp and torque so im just toyin with all kinds of ideas right now.
    Yeah, I'm not saying "don't", just saying "you don't HAVE to"... As for the factory cooler, that may or may not be sufficient, especially if you stall. I plan on putting in a cooler upgrade, possibly in series with my factory cooler (if I have one, haven't looked). I've got the same problem you do... so many ways you can go with it, its tough to choose.

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