97 RCSB 6.0L + 4L80E + Procharger swap:)

[myzterray]

03 blue connector:
#19 repin with 97 black conn. #18
#20 repin with 97 grey #21
#33 repin with 97 black #10
#58 repin with 97 black #11
#75 repin with 97 blue #4

03 green conn.
#9 repin with 97 black #1
#46 repin with 97 black #5
#49 repin with 97 blue #15
#50 repin with 97 black #4

On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

got this info from a member in here wayoung.. he did a 4.8 into a 97 burb. im doing something similar and im also at the wiring part of the swap. i already modified the facory harness just haven't had a chance to install it.

[mattc]

03 blue connector:
#19 repin with 97 black conn. #18
#20 repin with 97 grey #21
#33 repin with 97 black #10
#58 repin with 97 black #11
#75 repin with 97 blue #4

03 green conn.
#9 repin with 97 black #1
#46 repin with 97 black #5
#49 repin with 97 blue #15
#50 repin with 97 black #4

On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

got this info from a member in here wayoung.. he did a 4.8 into a 97 burb. im doing something similar and im also at the wiring part of the swap. i already modified the facory harness just haven't had a chance to install it.

sweet! yeah i read through your entire thread and was taking some notes lol

on this part though i dont really understand whats going on with that? is that for the old tranny or the 4.8 tranny i'm not sure if it would be the same since i'm swapping the 4l80e in with the engine?

On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

added some to the ?s with no answers yet


2. on the power steering pump what do i do about the third line? hydroboost? cap it off?
3. what do i do with the third plastic fuel line or whatever that is, some sort of vent or evap line or something. do they make a plate to cap this off as well?
4. what do i need to do about the temp sensor to make it work with my gauges, i saw a few people using adapters to use the 97 sensor i'd like to just keep them all the lq4 sensors if i can to keep it simple later.
5. the factory oil dip stick was rusted to pieces and broke on me and the piece that slides into the block broke off flush with the block any tips on removing this, would it have a rubber grommet? or an o ring?
6. does anyone know of someone who notched the frame to use the LS style a/c compressor in its original location and might have some pictures?

[RPM Graphics]

not sure about the 3rd line on yours. i'm swapping an LS1 from a camaro into my truck & if i remember right the third line i have goes to the radiator hose. i'm not to that part of my swap yet.

you can remove the evap but you'll have to have it removed from the ECU when you get it tuned.

i went a different route with my oil & temp sensor. i bought a single wire plug for the LS1 oil pressure sensor & a 3 pin coolant temp sensor with a a harness so i only have the one sensor.
you can check them out in my build thread. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...gondown-3.html

dip stick tube should have an o-ring. i'd try some needle nose & try to bend the tube so you can grab it & try to pull it out with the needle nose. or you should be able to drop the pan & push it out from the inside.

[myzterray]

sweet! yeah i read through your entire thread and was taking some notes lol

on this part though i dont really understand whats going on with that? is that for the old tranny or the 4.8 tranny i'm not sure if it would be the same since i'm swapping the 4l80e in with the engine?






added some to the ?s with no answers yet


2. on the power steering pump what do i do about the third line? hydroboost? cap it off?
3. what do i do with the third plastic fuel line or whatever that is, some sort of vent or evap line or something. do they make a plate to cap this off as well?
4. what do i need to do about the temp sensor to make it work with my gauges, i saw a few people using adapters to use the 97 sensor i'd like to just keep them all the lq4 sensors if i can to keep it simple later.
5. the factory oil dip stick was rusted to pieces and broke on me and the piece that slides into the block broke off flush with the block any tips on removing this, would it have a rubber grommet? or an o ring?
6. does anyone know of someone who notched the frame to use the LS style a/c compressor in its original location and might have some pictures?

awesome happy you were able to use my thread as a resource. i been really busy and havent had a chance to put in any work. sundays are my usual days but my giants are in the play offs so i been glued to the tv on sundays now lol.
thaat last part is for the original trans. i believe you will need to splice some wires from the original park/neutral safty switch in order for it to work.
i have the same power steering question i have the third line and im not sure what to do with it. ill just cap it off for now and if it gives me any issues ill just get a different pump.

you can use the original 97 sender and wire from the truck harness. there an adapter that goes in to the block then your original snder will then attach to that. i believe you can keep the ls sensor if you plan on running electric fans. the stock sender will connect to the front left hand side and if you decide to run both the 97 sender goes into the rear right hand side.

dipstick has an oring at the bottom. only thing i can think of is remove the oil pan and push it through with some pliers.

ive heard alot of people running into problems notching the fame. you are better off getting a relocation bracket that put the a/c compressor on the top right side of the engine. i just sold one by kwik performance. cost about 200 then you would have to buy and sanden compressor. or novak has a kit that uses the compressor from the pre 95 truck. i would use that one because the parts would be easier to interchange. the lines condensor etc.

[mattc]

finally got a little more free time to tinker with the engine a bit, i pulled the accessories off and valve covers and get the crank bolt broke loose, man what a bitch that was lol. i ended up sticking a 12" extension in the pulley and let it rest on the a/c bracket, got another 3/4 drive socket and a 12 in cheater bar + a 4 foot jack handle and lift up and broke it loose, when it moved it literally made a spark lol and i damn near had the front of the engine stand off the ground but its loose! the top of the heads look pretty clean and nice so i'm happy with that.

now i just gotta wait for one more paycheck so i can order a cam, pushrods, springs, and a timing chain from Bob @ Brutespeed!

[mattc]

still haven't had much time to tinker with the engine buttttt i did get enough time to weld/redrill the holes in my axles back to a 5x5 pattern so i could install the new wheels and M&H tires and HOLY SHIT does this thing hook and go now. wheels are Weld RT-s 15x8.25 w 5.50 backspacing with 275/60s. i did manage to get some brackets cut out for the caltrac bars but i'm still waiting on my heim joints to get in before i put it all together.

[mattc]

added some home made caltracs today cost me right at $100 bucks for everything! sure beats 400 for the premade ones!

[TRPLXL2]

This is going to be an awesome build I can see it now, that was a really good price on the drivetrain too! Do the caltracs really do any good? I was thinking about buying a set for my colorado, but I have to buy the pre made ones because I don't have those skills///

[mattc]

well i've had a few people ask about the traction bars so here are the drawings i made to have them cut out, obviously you need to measure your setup before you have these made since i can only gauruntee that they fit on my truck lol

hopefully this helps anyone wanting to make their own set and save a couple hundred bucks!

[mattc]

found some part numbers for the oil cooler block off plate and a new dipstick.

12558346 – EGR Block off plate
12577903 – Oil cooler block off plate
12611384 – Oil block off gasket
11588714 – Oil block off bolts (x2)
12610053 – 02-07 dipstick
12570623 – Truck Oil fill tube

borrowed from here

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...=9134&start=40