Thinking of selling my 94 Z71 and moving on, I really would be better off with an extended cab or crew cab, hence the desire to sell. It's been my DD for 14 months, since I put the LS motor in it, and I have put about 14,000 miles on it since June 2010. I built this truck not to be a toy, but to be dead-nuts reliable, and it has been.
If I can get close to $5k out of it, she's sold.
Basic details
RCLB Z71, Power windows and doorlocks.
14x,xxx miles on the body.
2004 4.8L V8, Bone stock. Motor has under 25,000 original miles. I bought it with 8 miles on it from my friend that bought the 04 Silvy new and built a 6.0/T56 RCSB SS "clone". I ran the motor in my 93 Sierra for 4 years, but the truck was a weekend beater, hence very few miles/year.
- Exhaust is a near stock 2004 stainless exhaust, from the heads back, stock cats too. Only mod was to add ~10" to the mid section (right behind the joint for the y-pipe) to fit the truck right. That was done with a piece of 2.75" 409 stainless, same as the factory exhaust. I custom made exhaust hangers for the frame to adapt the entire exhaust. You will not NEED a new exhaust for another 10 years, unless you want the truck louder. I have 2 other noisy vehicles, so stock was always OK for me.
- 1994 4L60E - Trans was rebuilt just before I bought the truck. Shift kit, 7-plate 3-4 clutches, better band, servo, still shifts firm and tight, zero issues. I have a TCI trans cooler plumbed to it, with hydraulic hoses and fittings. Dead nuts reliable, no issues in 14k miles.
-Rear axle rebuilt with 8.6" 3.73's from the same 04 Silvy I got the motor from, and added a new-takeout Gov-lock from an 02 Silverado. I used a DTS install kit to adapt the new diff to the old housing. New rear drums and shoes (Wagner Select IIRC) this summer. Wheel cylinders were replaced just before I bought the truck (still were new cast finish). All new diff bearings, pinion bearings, axle bearings and seals. It's basically an old housing with new guts. Axle shafts had no odd wear and the seals hold the lube. ZERO issues, I just rebuilt the whole thing when I upgraded the gears.
-Front axle replaced with a 3.73 unit from a 99 Tahoe, so it has the better actuator. I have it all wired up and 4WD works great. I wired it to a switch on the dash with an LED indicator, as I have heard the factory circuit can be problematic. New front right caliper this summer, and Hawk HPS brake pads with Russel braided lines installed last fall.
-NP241c transfer case is original as far as I know, zero issues.
-Russel braided brake lines in front and on rear axle.
- New master cylinder going in today. Only issue was a bad reservoir grommet, but those are not available separately.
-New tie-rods, pitman arm, idler arm, etc replaced June 2010, these were from Pep Boys with a lifetime warranty. New store brand front shocks. New MOOG upper and lower ball joints installed late last summer.
Body - Overall, the most rust free truck I have seen in MI. No rust on the outer body, very minor spots just starting to show under the bed. Frame is 90% rust free except for spare tire x-member, I'll probably attend to that in the coming weeks.
Bed. It looks like it's had a plastic liner in it since new. At some time the bed must have had a cap, as the bed rails were scuffed down to the paint. I coated the bedrails, under the rails, any spot on the bed floor that the bed liner scuffed through the paint (no rust), and the tailgate with Herculiner. Pretty decent stuff, and really protected the metal. This coating is 10 months old. I also had a new GM tailgate painted to match, which I then coated with Herculiner. Really cleaned up an protected the body.
- Rest of the body. Paint is OK. Clearcoat and all that are still fine, but there are some significant scratches in the paint, a couple of dings, and the front right fender is pushed in slightly behind the grill. I have a new grill in the truck. It's spent some of it's life as a work truck, so the paint is not perfect. That said, it's still keeping the rust away, and showed no decay after me driving it this past winter. I washed it regularly over the winter.
-Wheels/Tires: Going with the truck are a set of 18" Escalade takeoffs. They were takeoffs the previous owner put on the truck just before I bought it, and have less than 6-8000 miles on them. I put aftermarket wheels/tires on the truck this past spring, the
Issues. Wiring needs a little cleanup. I am still running a 2004 underhood fusebox, but deleting it and wiring in 6 -7 fuses and 2 relays is all it needs. I am running a 2001 0411 PCM and harness. All guages work. Old Sony CD head unit, Polk 4x6" front speakers, and Eclipse rear 4x6's. The cube radio delete closeout parts are all installed. If I get a solid deposit for the asking price, that will be enough motivation for me to finish cleaning it up. As it is, I only had one power drain issue, which has been corrected. I use OEM wiring methods, and all wire added to adapt the harness is GXL wire, which is better than OEM grade (TXL). Again, everything was done to make this thing dead-nuts reliable. I did all the calibration modifications myself, which essentially equates to changes to the start/crank commands, speedo cal, and turning off some of the Evap diagnostics. Other than that, it's running a factory calibration.
Interior. Grey cloth interior. Previous owner installed some tan-cloth seats out of a either a 2-door yukon or and extended cab truck. Center console too. Carpet is OK, not worn out, but not likely to give up all the stains. Everything was shampoo'd last summer, I re-shampoo'd the left side this summer. No rips or tears on anything, but not matching either. Seat covers will fix this up, I have been holding out to do a Bonneville seat swap someday.
Truck also comes with a Class 3 receiver, no hitches/balls included, and is wired for a trailer brake controller. I've only towed with it once.
Here's a thread of me putting it together. Details of the motor mount brackets etc..
I think I have said "dead nuts reliable" several times, and I cannot stress enough that EVERYTHING I have done to this truck has been with that in mind.
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...-2-94-z71.html
And here's some pics I have on my HD. This is right after I put the bed coating on. If you look closely, you can see the leading edge of the fender and the damage.
Underside of the body/frame. No rust, just dirt.
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Originally Posted by quicksilverado
