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Thread: 5.3 into and 86 4x4 C10

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Newton, KS
    Posts
    45
    I did notch the frame slightly in the rear by the crossover flange, but I'm not sure I would have had to. I looked through my pictures and I don't have any showing that. I used high pressure rubber hose for the fuel system and Dorman fuel rail adapters to the stock fuel rail and regulator. There is currently no vss and it runs great, but I still plan on putting one in sometime. If you don't use the vss you'll get a high idle code, but it can be shut off in the programming.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sioux Lookout, Ontario
    Posts
    38
    Thanks for all of this. I'm looking to install mine on a test stand to run for a bit to ensure the wiring has all been done correctly, and install during the winter or early spring. Really looking foward to the ability to just turn key and start, rather than pumping the gas and fiddle with the choke

    Looking at one of you're pictures, the power steering pump looks like a new pump (5.3 pump). Any troubles adapting the lines to fit the old steering box?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Newton, KS
    Posts
    45
    That is the newer style pump that comes on the 5.3. I've heard that '81 and newer use the same fitting, so your original hoses will work. Due to its location, its a little hard to tighten the pressure hose down, but it can be done. I had to bend the return line pipe on the pump for frame clearance. Good luck with your build.

  4. #24
    First of all, beautiful truck! I just picked up a similar 86 K10 that I bought a 6.0 for. Can't wait to get started!!!
    04 Z-71 ECSB, Leveling Kit, DC Mud Country 33'', JBA Shorties & Super 40 Flowmaster, PPI, JL Audio & Alpine audio with I-pod

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sioux Lookout, Ontario
    Posts
    38
    What did you do for the remainder of the exhaust? Did you use the factory Y-pipe and build from it, or just custom from the manifolds back?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Newton, KS
    Posts
    45
    It's all custom from the manifolds back. Dual 3" pipes with 40 series flowmasters. It dumps in front of the rear axle. I would go with 2.5 inch pipes if I was to do it again. The larger pipes make it pretty loud.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sioux Lookout, Ontario
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by Kansas T View Post
    The aftermarket tank switching valve isn't strong enough to switch while running.

    Dead heading the pumps for a little bit doesn't hurt anything. I did this swap for a friend of mine and he's been daily driving it since
    I finished it. One of the walbro pumps failed shortly after he got it, but other than that, no issues. He drives it about 60 miles a day.
    How long has he been driving the truck since the swap? I've been trying to locate an aftermarket switching valve, and the ones I have found are only rated to 60-65psi or so. If the FPR is located downstream of the switching valve, I would think the valve would see higher pressures than 58psi (pump side of the FPR). Has he had any leaks or anything of the sort? Is his set up this was, or differently?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Newton, KS
    Posts
    45
    I used the Pollak switching valve that's rated to 65psi. Since the fuel pressure regulator is on the return side of the fuel rail the pressure should never be over 60 anywhere in the system. No leaks in the system, but the drivers side fuel pump came loose the other day. The bracket I made to hang the pump broke free from the sending unit. It was a quick fix to make a new bracket, but next time I'll probably use the tbi style fuel senders.

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