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Thread: 97 GMC Sierra 5.0l soon to get a full 5.3l swap..

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga
    Posts
    692
    Quote Originally Posted by pacobeagle View Post
    It's somewhat complicated as I simply added a bus to my OEM fuse box and tapped into the power for all of the new items there. I also tapped into the OEM fuel power supply and ignition power supply from the fuse box. Essentially, I've still got the fuse box but with i think two or three added fuses. I can't remember right now. I've grafted both harness's into one. I've removed a bunch of grounds from the harness. If needed I can always add to them.
    As far as keeping items from the OEM harness....I kept the starter signal, oil pressure switch, a/c, coolant temp, alternator wires. I also have to make a "y" harness for the speed sensor as it needs to go to the new ecu to deal with shifting the trans and it needs to go to old ecu for gauges. Theres more I'm sure, but my brain is fryed right now in dealing with al of these wires!!!!!
    oh ok..so you kept the original fuse box and just added the extra fuses for the ls stuff. where does the vss go?
    96 2 Door Tahoe 4wd / 5.3 Swap / CAI / Tune / Pacesetter LTs / Magnaflow / LED Dash / Novak A/C Bracket /


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ders-pics.html

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mobile, al
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by myzterray View Post
    oh ok..so you kept the original fuse box and just added the extra fuses for the ls stuff. where does the vss go?
    I was told that VSS must go to both new and old ecu. The new ecu needs the signal for shifting duties, and the old ecu for the gauge.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mobile, al
    Posts
    156
    Well, the ecu and Lextech's a/c bracket kit are on their way to me. Really excited to get this on the road. Going to have to drive it "open header" to the exhaust shop in order to get the Y-pipe cut/modified/welded on. Should be pretty nice. I've already got a Flowmaster 50-series I scored from the salvage yard in there for $15!!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mobile, al
    Posts
    156
    Bolted up the OEM(2000) Y-pipe and there is a small problem. The cross-pipe(from drivers side over to the pass. side) goes right under the trans. mount!!!! Either I chop/cut and modify the y-pipe or I custom build a new trans cross-member. I'm thinking plan "B" for right now. Going to have to find some 3/8" flat bar at least...maybe some box tubing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mobile, al
    Posts
    156
    Sunday update:
    Found at the salvage yard the NBS trans cross member($17). Also found a pair of 10-bolt, 6lug rear axle shafts($19ea). I didn't purchase the rear axles because I am not really sure that they will work. My question is about the rear brake drums. Can I simply re-drill them for 6 lug?
    I'll post a picture of the trans. mount dilemma later on today.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    East TN
    Posts
    16
    Don't carve this in stone, but from what I know, the 4wd axles will be longer than the 2wd. I know the 4wd runs a wheel with an offset similar to a fwd car where the 2wd runs (at least the OBS) runs a traditional rwd offset. I know the S-10s are the same kinda thing and the rear ends are a different width, so I'm assuming (I know what assuming does) that the full size are the same.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mobile, al
    Posts
    156
    I understand, but if I'm to shorten the rear axles and use them in my OBS rear housing, it should work. I, like you, am assuming it will work. Now there is a small discrepency on the front rotors but I'm told a spacer should take care of that. Low91 is the one who is doing the swap or rather completed. There is another person on here who has done the conversion as well.

    For now, it's more of a future mod than a necessity. Really want to get the thing running and iron out the smal details.

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