Also, I want to thank RobT34 and my two buddies not on the site for helping me today. And thanks to my wife and mother in law for the food. Those burgers were freakin delicious
Also, I want to thank RobT34 and my two buddies not on the site for helping me today. And thanks to my wife and mother in law for the food. Those burgers were freakin delicious
'02 Silvy: Z71 EC Step Side 5.3L Nelson tuned
2013 GMC Acadia: SLT1 Carbon Black
1976 Corvette Stingray: Trying to save it, progress is slow.
^Ricky's Sweet PS Skilz
09/21/2010 02:31 <danger_ranger83> I'm not really worried about the looks...I want it to be fast and ugly...bc no one wants to get outrun by something ugly
Just an FYI, but when jacking up a C3 you should remove the t-tops, crack the doors open and pop the hood.
Is that specifically for the C3's or any fiberglass-bodied car? It currently has t-tops and hood removed. should i leave the doors cracked the entire time its on stands or is that just when i am cranking the jack? Thanks for the tip.
'02 Silvy: Z71 EC Step Side 5.3L Nelson tuned
2013 GMC Acadia: SLT1 Carbon Black
1976 Corvette Stingray: Trying to save it, progress is slow.
^Ricky's Sweet PS Skilz
09/21/2010 02:31 <danger_ranger83> I'm not really worried about the looks...I want it to be fast and ugly...bc no one wants to get outrun by something ugly
I've only ever heard it for C3s. It is to allow the body to flex with the frame while it is being jacked up. I think it would be fine once on the stands. I always just unlatch the t-tops and pop the hood and doors to make sure the pressure is off.
There is also lots of discussion about whether the front x-member should be used or not. Lots of people say only the factory points on the frame rails under the cab, but I'd just use some common sense.
Chances are the doors might not shut once it's jacked up. They do flex a bit. Everything should be fine once it's back on the ground though. I've owned several C3s over the years and have jacked them up many times with the doors and hood shut, never had a problem. If you open a door after it's jacked up it may or may not shut though.
Also if it's a big block car and the jack stands are located at the front of the doors and behind the doors it will be very light on the back end. I wouldn't support a big block C3 on a lift in those locations as it could potentially fall off the lift forward.
Not a prob, and the burgers were damn good for sure.Originally Posted by cjriojas
Also, I want to thank RobT34 and my two buddies not on the site for helping me today. And thanks to my wife and mother in law for the food. Those burgers were freakin delicious
02' 5.3 ECSB| Nelson 93 Tune | 212/218 Cam | Circle D 3200 | LPP lt's w/ ORY | Volant CAI | Magnaflow | Raceready Cutout | Belltech 2/4 | JL Audio |
Jeff (GMCwantsLS1) and I finished the brakes today. Now I'm ready to get the radiator and rad mount on. Then its fluid swaps (not like the kind with tyler's mom) and she should be running pretty soon. Thanks a ton Jeff
'02 Silvy: Z71 EC Step Side 5.3L Nelson tuned
2013 GMC Acadia: SLT1 Carbon Black
1976 Corvette Stingray: Trying to save it, progress is slow.
^Ricky's Sweet PS Skilz
09/21/2010 02:31 <danger_ranger83> I'm not really worried about the looks...I want it to be fast and ugly...bc no one wants to get outrun by something ugly
I'm glad we got a little bit done. It would have been fun to fire it up but without the rad. If it was cooler and I wasn't tired from two days of class lol.
2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
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