4L60E Question

[02chevyls1]

well i know everyones gunna say to buy a 80e but i want to know when building a 60 what are some parts that are must haves for the 60, parts that will beef it up and make it last longer, besides from the corvette servos

[ls1ram]

Get the beast sunshell, wide rear sungear bushing, 4l70e outputshaft, high rpm pump slide spring, borgwarner dual cage sprag, HD 2-3 shift valve that applies the overun clutches and race in "3" gear selector position so it supports the sprag, sonnax .490 boost valve. drill second gear feed hole to .093, get the servo release check valve so you can drill 3rd gear apply hole to .115 , I like the rebestos 3-4 z-pack, and the patc carbon 2-4 band, billet 4th gear servo. white 1-2 acc spring, brown 3-4 acc. spring.

I don't use shift kits in my 4l60e transmissions, My LS2/4l60e Camaro runs 10.2 @ 127 and my LS1/4l60e Dodge Ram runs 14.0 @ 94. I haven't burnt a band or 3-4 clutch pack yet....

[Bryant]

I'm in the same boat as 04SilverBullet, so you guys think that a 4L80E/stall swap with a stock 5.3L with bolt-ons should work well together and just give up on a 4L60 or just forget it all and do the T-56 swap?

[kerrige]

The T-56 while cool and fun is not cost effective. An 80e is the most cost effective most reliable route for your average joe. A built 60 in a RCSB will have a little easier time than say in a Crewcab. If you plan to stay under 500ish a built 60 is fine, but in the long run a 80e is just a really good option. The 80e with a good stall and the right gears is a great combo. Simple and straight forward.

[pl4yboy]

I'm in the same boat as 04SilverBullet, so you guys think that a 4L80E/stall swap with a stock 5.3L with bolt-ons should work well together and just give up on a 4L60 or just forget it all and do the T-56 swap?

I see you are from Fort Smith. Sent you a PM sir. The 4l80e is more than enough for a stock 5.3. I'm with Greg, I'll never own another 60e again.

The T-56 while cool and fun is not cost effective. An 80e is the most cost effective most reliable route for your average joe. A built 60 in a RCSB will have a little easier time than say in a Crewcab. If you plan to stay under 500ish a built 60 is fine, but in the long run a 80e is just a really good option. The 80e with a good stall and the right gears is a great combo. Simple and straight forward.

I wouldn't even say under 500 is fine. I'd say anything over 375 or so, you're on borrowed time. Some people have made them last well into the 500 for long periods of time... but not in trucks. Very few have had 60s, 65s, or 70s last over 400 for long periods of time. The 80e with the right stall is more than you will ever need.

[Xlr8n]

Skeet has had his PB Lvl II 60 for a while. I do not know the exact time of when he got it but I know he ran from high tens to low 11's all year last year on it. This season he is running a 410 c.i.d. engine in front of it. We'll see how long it lasts behind that engine. Lol.

[pl4yboy]

Like I said, very few have done it.