What gaskets need replaced for cam swap?

[zts gixx]

Doing cam and valve spring swap this weekend. What all gaskets should I go get before I start? Also, will I need to remove the radiator. I'm going to use the how to on ls1howto.com as a guide, but I'm sure there are a few things that may be a little different with our trucks. Oh, this is on a 5.3 if that matters. Thanks

[408.Luke]

yeah you have to pull the rad, only gasket you would need is the oil pick up tube but im guessing you arnt changing pumps so that doesnt have to come off, besides that the water pump gaskets some times need new ones but most of the time thats it, everything is reusable except head gaskets and even those are reusable some times

[Shon Herron]

If you get lucky you can reuse the timing cover gasket, but that and the WP is the only ones that might have to be replaced unless you mess up the valve cover ones.

[zts gixx]

I think I might just go get a WP and timing cover gasket just to know they are new and good. I can always return them if I don't use them. Thanks for the info all

[zts gixx]

Napa said I needed an oil pan gasket too (per thier computers). Do cooling lines share this gasket or something? I won't open it up until I find that I have to use it. Also, do I need to pull the AC condensor? Just doing some tear down tonight before my buddy comes over tomorrow to help me with the swap.

[Frenchy]

GM sells a cam swap kit. Comes with all the gaskets that may or may not need replaced and a new crank bolt.

[zts gixx]

Will I need a new crankbolt?

[oleshifty]

YES!


read up on the crank bolt before touching motor...by far the hardest part.

[zts gixx]

OK will do, thanks. Anyone know if there is a write up on doing this for our trucks? Then I can stop asking questions

I guess I need to remove the ac condensor as well?

[oleshifty]

condensor can stay.


Basically...get good impact...zap bolt off. Remove belt. Rent a 'chrysler' pulley puller from autoparts store. Remove pulley. (you can use a 3/8 12" extension inside the crank cavity so the puller has something to push against)

do cam swap

When putting pulley back on (i recommend getting UD while you have it off), few options. Warm in over (works...can ruin seal). Beat on with a 4x4 and sledge hammer (how I did it...can mess up crank bearings). Buy/build a tool (how I will be doing my next one...someone on here sells them cheap). Basically need a long piece of 16x2 threaded rod. Thread into crank. Put a washer on it, put a nut on it. Use nut to pull the pulley on.

Crank the pulley down with the OLD bolt. Torque to amount (look up numbers...i dont know them off top of my head...any repair manual should list it). Remove old bolt. Install new bolt. Torque. Try to tighten the extra 140* (or whatever ridiculous number the manual says)...give up at 12* (what I actually got it cranked down to with a breaker bar and 4 foot pipe)

There's an 'inspection' cover on the trans...looks like a 3 inch wide aluminum foil cover....pop it off. You can use a pry bar to keep the flywheel from turning when you're fighting the crank bolt. Helps to have several people.