I'm barely hitting 160 myself this winter in the truck I bought.
I'm barely hitting 160 myself this winter in the truck I bought.
Granted, I've changed the water pump and radiator since last winter, but there was no issue with heat at all. Gauge was always rock solid one needle-width below 210. It was just fine in the cold (30-40deg) until the last few weeks. I don't think living with a condition like this is acceptable, something has gone wrong and needs to be addressed. Even in the "Snowmageddon" the local whiners have been whining about here last season didn't faze the heater, so I am certain there is a new development of which I am presently unaware.
Last edited by Hambone!; 12-22-2010 at 08:07 AM. Reason: SP
Probably had a restriction in the old radiator that was letting it get up to temp. Now you have a more efficient system and it is doing its job. Try blocking off a portion of the radiator with cardboard to get the temps up.
cjriojas:if you're weather man is a 5 gallon bucket, YOUUUUUUUUUUU might be a redneck
danger_ranger83: I see now why it cost so much to get a harness made... FML
2boostedSilverado: I like Casey's rear end, I want to chat with him about it
30-40 degrees isn't cold. At all. You shouldn't be having any trouble. Even when it's -20 my truck gets up to temp, it takes a while, but it does.
2006 SilveradoLittle Black Bitch
Right, has been in the 20's the last few days... And so far it seems anyone with an issue has developed a work around using cardboard over the radiator instead of actually fixing the problem. I can't be the ONLY ONE who has this issue and wants to actually fix it. Am I ?
Yup. I've spent a bunch of time/money to make sure mine runs cold in the summer when I'm spraying/towing/etc. Cardboard works just fine for me in the winter. Put a honda radiator in it if you want it to heat up faster.Originally Posted by Hambone!
blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum
Have we run out of steam here? It's an odd feeling to be the only one trying to actually solve the problem rather than develop a work-around. No idea what would cause significant coolant flow through the upper hose when started cold (32deg)? Anyone have an engineering diagram of the water pump or cooling system for an LQ4?
dam -20. when it gets down to 20 here i can barely stand it
You did get the proper thermostat correct? One that opens too much and flows too much can cause a vehicle to do 1 of 2 things.
1. Over heat cause coolant is not given enough time to cool when passing through the radiator
or
2. Run colder because the coolant is not heated as thoroughly when passing through the block at a faster rate.
Just trying to eliminate any possible fault.
2013 CC 5.3
81 C10 LS1 project
Yes, tested the 2 new ones I pulled out. In a pot of water, they both open at 190, close at 180 or pretty close. By 200 they were both open pretty far, and closed fast when dunked in cold water. Used a meat thermometer instead of infrared.
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