N20 debate

[408.Luke]

this isnt the fast and the furious... car #2 would be down 100hp for more or less 1/2 the track, is not like the #1 car is gona run out of n20 1/2 way down the track (assuming they have whole bottles)

[BryanC]

Exactly. He is trying to say 2 stage sends more volume to the motor thus making more power. I said then its not a 150 shot. Oh yeah he also said timing to hit the juices everything . And max power is only about 3 secs long and with a 2 stage it hold a max power for like 6 secs BTW he is an import guy. And I made this post to prove him wrong cause he won't listen to me.

[pl4yboy]

I guess basic physics and logic elude him. As for the 3/6 second thing... assuming there was a constant pressure in the bottle instead of a declining one... the "max power" would stay the same for as long as you held the button.

[BryanC]

I get the Point Every time you Spray you get some pressure drop. But he is saying it will drop so fast that you would not have close to 150shot at the end. ArNYWHO..... He is Posting this same information on a Import forum he goes to alot to see what they say, He does not Trust Me nor what you guys have said on here. And he called to "builders" about the same thing I am waiting on responses. But thanks guys for responding to a Kinda pointless Work Rant.

Bryan

[408.Luke]

if this same thread is on another forum please post link

[Frenchy]

does he also believe that if you drive like an idiot you collect points that somehow refill the bottle?

[Josh K]

With the Nano systems out there, you could theoretically run the entire bottle out before losing any performance because the bottle pressure is maintained indefinitely, even while spraying. With a 100 HP shot of N20, I lose almost exactly 1 lb. of nitrous during a 1/4 mile run. The run takes about 11 seconds, so lb. of N20 = 11 seconds of spray (with my car). That means that with a 10 lb. bottle, I can theoretically get 110 seconds of continuous use. With the Nano system forcing nitrogen into the bottle as I spray, I would see the maximum performance of the kit for the entire bottle.

However, much beyond about 25 seconds and solenoids will fail. The fuel solenoid will melt the coil, and the N20 solenoid will freeze open. Spraying for more than 10-15 seconds at a clip is pretty abnormal in the real world.

As far as timing, drag racing, and spraying; it's not like the movies where you hit the juice "too soon." I hit my car with 75 at the line, and it ramps to the entire 150 shot over .3 of second. The only reason I do it that way is for traction. On days when the track is really working, I'll take the delay out and hit the car with 150 from start to finish. The car is faster without the ramp.

Volume and N20... That's a strange one, never heard that mentioned before. Here's some basics of N20, so you can educate your buddy:

Engines burn gasoline to make the car/truck move. The more gasoline you burn the more power you make. So what prevents you from using ultra huge fuel injectors, a powerful fuel pump, and making some obscene amount of power? Well, you have to burn the gasoline. We all know that fire requires oxygen and fuel. Fuel we can add as much as we want via injectors and pump, so the problem then becomes how to supply the engine with oxygen.

Air that you, I, and our engines breath is about 19% oxygen. All the other stuff in the air, the motor doesn't care about. All the motor wants/needs is that oxygen. Get more oxygen, burn more fuel, make more power.

Turbo and super chargers force more normal air into the motor. Greater amount of normal air = greater amount of oxygen. This lets you burn more fuel and make more power.

Nitrous Oxide is 33% oxygen. If you spray nitrous oxide into the motor, you've replaced a portion of the normal air with nitrous oxide, so you've managed to get more oxygen into the motor. That extra oxygen allows you to burn more fuel, and make more power.

Everyone knows you keep nitrous oxide in a tank in the car/truck. As you use the stuff, the bottle pressure goes down. If you heat up the bottle, the pressure comes back up. Most nitrous systems use an electric heater to keep the bottle pressure at about 950-1050 PSI. On a cold day, with a half full bottle, the bottle heater might have to work really hard to keep the pressure up to 950 PSI. On a hot day, with a full bottle, it's possible that the bottle will go to 1500 PSI or more without any help from the heater.

One of the keys to nitrous system performance is to keep the bottle pressure regulated. This is easy to do with the electric heater. Even on systems without a heater, on a warm day, you could probably get several runs out of a single bottle before noticing any drop in performance. I've ran my Corvette (on a 100 HP shot) 4-5 times without turning the heater on during the summer months, with no drop in performance.

*all runs are standing start 1/4 mile drag races. No 1/8 mile stuff.