few questions about a higher milage 4.8

[oleshifty]

I have a 5.3, but same block. I'm at 169k miles, I've beat on mine daily since about 99k. It doesn't burn/leak ANY oil, and I'm about to do cam/head swap on it. Biggest thing is IF something breaks, fix it RIGHT and put best parts you can afford into it. That way you're constantly upgrading the "weak" point.


Mileage isn't as important on these new motors as it was in the old days. Sure stuff wears, but long as you maintain it and replace parts at early warning signs, I don't think it's a big deal. I wouldn't hesitate to jump in my truck right now and drive cross country.

[RUFFNECK]

I have 217k on mine and drive it like I stole it sometimes. No problems burning oil or any leaks. Keep the fluids clean and change out all your filters. When adding bolt ons, make sure it is done right. The only thing to worry is the tranny. Keep the fluid temp low and clean. These motors were built right and made to run hard. Good luck and God Bless!!

[Mf2racer]

My next question is about a cam swap what all would be needed? I was told you have to replace more things once your past 100k like lifters and such also is there a grind out there that could give me a loapy idle with out needing a high stall to perform correctly. and am i just wasting my time if a do a cam before headers? and if i do headers im worryed about snapping off bolts any trick to this?

[RUFFNECK]

Your stock lifters will be ok with the new cam. There are some cams that come with a powerband that starts with around 1600 and ends at 6000, this is what you need to look for if you dont want a higher stall. You also need stronger springs for the added lift. Try calling Comp Cams and talking to a rep cuz choosing a cam is really personal choice and preference. Some guys want more power up top, some like more power down lower and midrange, some just want a choppy idle, etc. As far as the exhaust bolts, a good soak from some penetrating oil helps alot. I have used heat to do this but most the time they come right out with no problems.

[Mf2racer]

ok thanks

[ThumpinZ]

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/perfo...216-224-a.html

I just posted this thread earlier today if you scroll down I added a parts list with what you would need for a cam swap. even if you go with a different cam it should help you. I would go ahead and replace the timing chain and oil pump while your in there and if you do might as well completely drop the oil pan and replace the gasket since you'll have to lower it a bit anyways. Comp cams has an adjustable cam sprocket on there set Summit part # cca-3153kt $189. Yea you can go double roller and at that probably cheaper but there is no need for a double roller unless your making some serious power. Plus you'd have to shim the oil pump and so on making it a headache. Lifters will be fine, i replaced mine with the gm performance lifters because i had to pull the head to get a rocker arm stud pulled out. They are and always will be small block chevy's, you can't kill them. Put a little money to the side and build away.

[Mf2racer]

well i think this is the route im going first e-fans,then gears,headers and ory most likely all at the same time so i can do a retune then wait while i save money for a cam. As far as gears go will i notice a big improvement going from 3.42s to like 3.73 or 4.10s? also if i do 4.10s will i loose alot of mpgs?

[RUFFNECK]

Get the 4.10's you wont lose MPG's. You will actually gain it in city driving. Speed is what kills MPG's not higher RPM's. The gears will help alot in bottom end.