+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 76

Thread: 5.3 into my 1987 SWB Stepside.

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by 87OldYeller View Post
    header from summit part# SUM-G908 $153.93 they are shorty headers fit 99-04 truck requires slight mods to PASS side rail

    you can cut a small chunk out of the frame so it will clear or, you can do as i am i am going to cat the header off at the flange and and add about 2 inches of pipe in to it.
    im in for this cuz if it works its the route ill attempt
    great progress btw

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    98
    I do not know anything about this so this is what I need to know.

    I got the transmission n all bolted in right. I did not have to move the cross member, it is all the way forward, here are some pictures of the drive shaft in the pictures I have it bolted into the yolk in the rear end. By judging how much is at the transmission do I need to have the drive shaft cut and shortened or does it look to yall like it will be fine? To me it looks like it would be ok but I do not remember how far it was in the old transmission.




  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    That looks about right. You have to have room for the suspension to compress. If you do a drop kit on the rear it will be sliding further into the trans.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Rio Grande City TX.
    Posts
    220
    nice
    2004 Silverado:THELSX L.M.E LSX 454 C.I tuned by Llavero 11.1 N/A @121 MPH
    2004 Sierra:GUNSLINGER L.M.E LSX 427C.I,Twin Borg Warner/Forced Induction 76mm, th400, Ford 9" with ladder bar

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Kingwood, TX
    Posts
    35
    Hey what trans is that, and what motor mounts did you go with?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    98
    I meant to post this early in the thread. But this info was passed down by Aussie. Thanks again man could not of done this swap with out you.

    header from summit part# SUM-G908 $153.93 they are shorty headers fit 99-04 truck requires slight mods to PASS side rail , i welded round stock to the underneath of the rail where i modifed it -you can use stock manifolds if you wish but make sure there the non EGR TYPE they will hit the frame where the EGR pipe mounts to on the manifold the header claim 15hp but do sound great

    trans-dapt 4572 engine mount adapters $47 seems to put the engine nicely against the firewall with plenty of clearance, they're from summit as well
    fuel pump airtex fuel pump E3270 provides plently of PSI $79.99 AutoZone
    fuel pump lines, people spend money here for no reason go to a junk yard and get lines from a pickup or tahoe 99 -2003 from the rail to the tank and only modify the part where it
    goes into the tank use a 87 - 91 EFI sending unit
    make sure you use the EVAP lines if your using the charcoal canister ! im not so i got rid of it and plugged the hole in the intake but tapping it out with 1/2 tap and use a short bolt!
    oh if you remove the EGR stuff of a 99-02 engine just remove the the plate that screws to the intake from the flex steel pipe and cap it dont buy one from GM for $30 takes 10 min to mod
    top rad hose of a 2001 silverado $17.99
    temp switch adapter 1/4 3/8 1/2 about $18.00 S&P
    harness mods $212 including the OB11 i used a guy from ebay i was a little worried but it works great oh by the way i dont have A/C but others do i have his email so message me if you want it
    ECU mods removing egr , rear O2s ,removing VATS, etc etc etc $75 i have his email too its a different guy
    there are a few other mods like i moved the battery to the drivers side make a better fit IMO use a diesel tray there cheap , i used a KN filter out of a 2001 truck i got it for $75 used made a brackets works nice!!!
    if your running cats your gonna have to make some mods to the factory 99-04 Y-pipe OR if your not running them you can do what i did i made my own flanges and made the pipe extentions from each header i put the front O2 bungs in each pipe extention and i was good to go!!! i cut my own gaskets from exhaust gasket sheet with the aluminuim works great no leaks
    you might have to move your trans crossmember back and mod your drive shaft i cut mine 1 3/4in cost was $55
    im using a 91 blazer/burb speedometer takes care of the the 4l60e /4l80e electronic speedo

    there a few other things needed but that will certainly get you going !!!

    if ive made an error please correct me thanks!!!!

    oh PS FLEX FUEL ENGINES I THINK THERE MORE EXPENSIVE TO GO THERE ROUTE

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    Good info. Man I love this build on a budget stuff. All that sounds like great info except the flex fuel part. I have flex fuel and once u tune it out of the ECM then ur just left with a regular 5.3 with bigger injectors.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Posts
    152
    what about the return line for the fuel? how do u do that if u run that fuel pump from autozone? does anyone know if the new style fuel pump will fit into a 1981 stock fuel tank. i have a brand new pump in the box.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    121
    Quote Originally Posted by Venom View Post
    what about the return line for the fuel? how do u do that if u run that fuel pump from autozone? does anyone know if the new style fuel pump will fit into a 1981 stock fuel tank. i have a brand new pump in the box.
    airtex fuel pump E3270 provides plently of PSI $79.99 AutoZone is a direct fit into your sending 87-91 efi sending unit i used the return lines from a 2001 truck works fine i wll try fnd a pic!!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    121
    Quote Originally Posted by 87OldYeller View Post
    I do not know anything about this so this is what I need to know.

    I got the transmission n all bolted in right. I did not have to move the cross member, it is all the way forward, here are some pictures of the drive shaft in the pictures I have it bolted into the yolk in the rear end. By judging how much is at the transmission do I need to have the drive shaft cut and shortened or does it look to yall like it will be fine? To me it looks like it would be ok but I do not remember how far it was in the old transmission.



    you can make out the line the seal made on the yoke !!!! if its close to that its good to go i had to cut my shaft 1 3/4 inches!

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts