6.0/4L80e swap running hot!

[tanz45]

Your running no stat? No stat usually makes the coolant flow too fast and has no time to cool in the rad. I didn't really read the whole thing, just saw no stat.

[Trick1]

Fans are turning in the correct direction and there isn't any water in the oil. I'm convinced that air was in the system at first and that's why it ran really hot.. also the malfunctioning coolant temp sensor which is why I didn't realize it was hot at first. The first time when it ran really hot it had to damage the headgasket or warp the head.. I mean the oil was so hot it was barely holding oil pressure resulting in valvetrain noise. It didn't run very long like that so hopefully nothing is damaged internally. The Blue Devil did stop it from steaming out the exhaust; however, I know that it cannot permanently fix the problems I have. I'm hoping that it will only take a couple of head gaskets to fix instead of the heads being warped. Wouldn't you say the gaskets would blow or burnout before the heads would be warped? And if the heads were warped, wouldn't you think the motor would skip more than being just a little rough?

Usually head gaskets go becuase its warped. OR lifted basicly a temp. warping issue.
Might ought to pull the heads and check it out before something expensive lets go?

[ThunderBolt]

Your running no stat? No stat usually makes the coolant flow too fast and has no time to cool in the rad. I didn't really read the whole thing, just saw no stat.

I took the t-stat out to run the Blue Devil treatment, but I put it back in after I was done.

Usually head gaskets go becuase its warped. OR lifted basicly a temp. warping issue.
Might ought to pull the heads and check it out before something expensive lets go?

So your saying chances are my head gasket blew because my heads are warped?
Or because the gasket itself is warped?

[r6z4o6]

I will tell you this, and this goes for ANYONE pulling heads with the slightest possibility of gasket/head issues. If you do not remove the heads and take them to a machine shop to get checked, they WILL be warped when you put them back on with new head gaskets and nothing will have changed lol. Murphy says so.

As far as the motor running more rough than it is, you are talking about something that has infinite degrees of being "out", blown, or warped. A water pump is good, or bad.(or failing) A head gasket/head can have so many degrees of failing, maybe it causes a big problem, maybe it doesn't. Depends on the severity...which is impossible to tell from the outside looking in.

When the rad is filled up with the proper amount of water, can you see any "steamy bubbles" or anything coming out? Refresh my memory, does your radiator have a cap or is the cap on the filler bottle thingy? Did you play with the heater any, you should def put it to HOT to let the water go into the heatercore.(once the headgaskets have been addressed) Is that the same radiator that was cooling the truck before?

You should do a compression check.

EDIT: Are you running the turbo setup right now?

[ThunderBolt]

My truck has the cap on the overflow tank and when the cap is off it does make "steamy bubbles" which shows it is presurizing.

The heater acts funny though.. sometimes it will blow really hot air then all of a sudden blow cool air. Not sure what's up with that..(maybe air in the heater core?)

Yes, same radiator as before and its a 34 inch. Also I am running the turbo setup.

[GasGuzzler]

Compression test is a waste of time in this instance. Do a block test and if it fails then do a leak down.

[GasGuzzler]

My truck has the cap on the overflow tank and when the cap is off it does make "steamy bubbles" which shows it is presurizing.

The heater acts funny though.. sometimes it will blow really hot air then all of a sudden blow cool air. Not sure what's up with that..(maybe air in the heater core?)

Yes, same radiator as before and its a 34 inch. Also I am running the turbo setup.

You have a blown head gasket or cracked head or block. Steam bubbles are a small clue (can be caused by an airlock) but the heater doing that is combustion in the cooling system hence no need for a compression test....block test will prove exhaust gases in the radiator. If from there you wanna know which cylinder it is and where the leak is leaking into...do the leak down test. Compression tests are only good for the START of misfire diagnosis.

[ThunderBolt]

Well I took the heads off monday and saw a few bad spots on the gaskets. I went to a machine shop to get my heads checked and sure enough they were warped! Got them resurfaced and I also leak checked the valves. Finally got it running tonight and.. so far so good.. it's not overheating like it did before. Hopefully if the rain slacks off I'll be able to drive it more tomorrow. Thanks to those who helped.

Trevor

[LsxCody]

Hope its fixed man