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Thread: Line Lock Going In

  1. #1
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    Line Lock Going In

    Just bought a double flare tool and think I have everything I need for a Hurst Roll Control install. Putting it on the rear breaks, reversed, to block out the rears when engaged (thanks to posts on this site). To those that have done this, would appreciate any tips on wiring and where you mounted the switch/light. Considering the side of the 4X4 shifter housing but not sure.
    ________________________
    2006 2500HD, RCLB, 4X4
    6.0, 4L80e, 14 bolt

  2. #2
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    Ask Mic, He installed 2 on his truck, 1 for fronts and 1 for rears. Keep us posted on how this works out for you. I think the biggest issue was how many different fittings he had to use to get it to work right. Maybe he can chime in on this.

    2004 Silverado Crew Cab, forged iron 5.7, STS w/MP turbo, 10+ psi, FMIC, Tial 50mm BOV, Vic Jr, Snow performance meth, MTI Stealth cam .220/.220 .581/.581 115lsa, Comp chromoly pushrods, Yank TT3000 stall, LS1 Efans, 160 tstat, Trucool 40k trans cooler, 60# injectors, Walbro fuel pump, Patriot springs, Built 4l65E w/billet input & output shafts, Eaton posi, SD tuned...all installed by Klein North Automotive

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    ya, but if you are cutting and flaring your own lines should not need any special fittings. I mounted my switch on the cup holder, and the light on the dash. works good.
    single digit street truck


    for build info

    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...cs-garage.html

    The best advice I have ever heard:... Only take B( . Y . )ST advice from someone that is CURRENTLY running a turbo setup close to, or bigger than what you want......

  4. #4
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    Got delayed with some exhaust work. No cats = a lot louder than I anticipated .

    Anyway, circling back on the line lock, the more I think about it I've just about convinced myself to run it on the fronts brakes. This is the traditional way to do it as I understand. Run it on the front brake lines to where you come to stop, apply the line lock, pump the pedal a few times, and then when you release the foot brake the front brakes remain engaged while you do your burnout.

    I like the rear set up from the standpoint of being able to roll out of your burn out with the pedal but I keep thinking about the off chance that I forget to disengage the linelock or if the switch got bumped accidently while driving. All the posts I can find searching seem to be about the rear brake set up. Seems like you could still roll out of your burnout just as easily by hitting the switch once you were ready and it would be safer. Anyone have any experience running off the fronts?
    ________________________
    2006 2500HD, RCLB, 4X4
    6.0, 4L80e, 14 bolt

  5. #5
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    Here is another mounting option if your a wuss like me and dont want to go off the rear brakes. Works great though. With the brakes depressed, engage the linelock, release the brake pedal, from there the front brakes remain engaged but the rears are not as long as the button remains depressed. Once your ready to roll out of your burnout simply release the button.

    Little tough to see with the hoses but there is the solenoid under the master cylinder off the front brake line.


    Switch on the column shift


    Engaged with indicator light on
    ________________________
    2006 2500HD, RCLB, 4X4
    6.0, 4L80e, 14 bolt

  6. #6
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    Not a fan of the placement of the switch, but good idea and install none the less.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
    2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
    2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
    2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pl4yboy View Post
    Not a fan of the placement of the switch, but good idea and install none the less.
    It seems tough to find a place to mount that switch. I think I'm going to mount mine above the fog light button.

    2004 Silverado Crew Cab, forged iron 5.7, STS w/MP turbo, 10+ psi, FMIC, Tial 50mm BOV, Vic Jr, Snow performance meth, MTI Stealth cam .220/.220 .581/.581 115lsa, Comp chromoly pushrods, Yank TT3000 stall, LS1 Efans, 160 tstat, Trucool 40k trans cooler, 60# injectors, Walbro fuel pump, Patriot springs, Built 4l65E w/billet input & output shafts, Eaton posi, SD tuned...all installed by Klein North Automotive

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramair2002 View Post
    It seems tough to find a place to mount that switch. I think I'm going to mount mine above the fog light button.
    I'd change switch types to something a little smaller that can be mounted on the dash somewhere.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
    2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
    2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
    2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pl4yboy View Post
    Not a fan of the placement of the switch, but good idea and install none the less.
    Aw come on, I thought it deserved a

    Each to their own I guess. It does keep your hands close to the wheel though.
    ________________________
    2006 2500HD, RCLB, 4X4
    6.0, 4L80e, 14 bolt

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sizzle Chest View Post
    Aw come on, I thought it deserved a

    Each to their own I guess. It does keep your hands close to the wheel though.
    That's the tricky part is mounting it close enough to not have to reach for it but still look good. Nice install either way!

    2004 Silverado Crew Cab, forged iron 5.7, STS w/MP turbo, 10+ psi, FMIC, Tial 50mm BOV, Vic Jr, Snow performance meth, MTI Stealth cam .220/.220 .581/.581 115lsa, Comp chromoly pushrods, Yank TT3000 stall, LS1 Efans, 160 tstat, Trucool 40k trans cooler, 60# injectors, Walbro fuel pump, Patriot springs, Built 4l65E w/billet input & output shafts, Eaton posi, SD tuned...all installed by Klein North Automotive

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