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Thread: Anyone used ARP's bellhousing studs?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
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    316

    Anyone used ARP's bellhousing studs?

    I just bought some of these (245-0901)and they seem to short. The side that threads into the block is only 1/2", 7/16" with the washer, I know the bolts I'm using now thread in quit a bit farther. I put one through an old trans I have to get an idea of how much thread length there would be, do you guys think thats enough threads to go into the block?

    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    newburgh, NY
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    What is the diameter of the bolt?

    My rule is as long as you have the diameter of the bolt on length of thread going into what ever you are as strong as you are going to be.
    Step 1. crus at it.
    Step 2. get a hammer.
    Step 3. torch it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bandera, TX
    Posts
    2,921
    no, I dont think so. and i like to have 2x the diameter deep unless fine thread then a little less is okay. wonder why they are so short....
    single digit street truck


    for build info

    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...cs-garage.html

    The best advice I have ever heard:... Only take B( . Y . )ST advice from someone that is CURRENTLY running a turbo setup close to, or bigger than what you want......

  4. #4
    I love ARP but it is hard to buy the right bolts. I have a set of converter bolts that I bought a long time ago that were not the right ones. Next arp bolts I buy will be bought by the engine builder.
    99RCSB Broke because I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars on my truck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    newburgh, NY
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    512
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboMic View Post
    no, I dont think so. and i like to have 2x the diameter deep unless fine thread then a little less is okay. wonder why they are so short....
    Think of it this way You have a 1 inch bolt the nut is not 2 inches thick at least CAT stuff isn't and we torque ground engaging bolts to 1700lbs.
    Step 1. crus at it.
    Step 2. get a hammer.
    Step 3. torch it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bandera, TX
    Posts
    2,921
    Quote Originally Posted by trx2stroke4life39 View Post
    Think of it this way You have a 1 inch bolt the nut is not 2 inches thick at least CAT stuff isn't and we torque ground engaging bolts to 1700lbs.
    its not into a nut..... its into a lower quality steel block.... you think the block material is the same quality as the arp hardware? i would say half the quality, so twice the thread needed..... like i said...just my
    single digit street truck


    for build info

    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...cs-garage.html

    The best advice I have ever heard:... Only take B( . Y . )ST advice from someone that is CURRENTLY running a turbo setup close to, or bigger than what you want......

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    I would worry trans R&R newbies would throw the trans up on the studs and hammer down on the nuts without triple checking the alignment. Might actually make alignment more difficult.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
    Posts
    316
    Well I think I've decided to send them back, the last thing I want to do is strip out half my threads. I've looked all over and can't find anything so I guess I'll just get so all thread and cut my own.
    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

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