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Thread: Control arm?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    322

    Control arm?

    Just recently, I've started having this kind of grinding squeak from the left front side (and not the usual suspension squeak from just being old, it does that too). The ball joint has been replaced before, maybe 5 years ago 80~90k miles or so. And anyone who's seen pics, the front has been lowered, and not the back. So its got a bit of a rake to it. This sound just started about 3 days ago, and has started getting a harsher sound to it.

    I know this is the web so its hard to 'hear' it, so makes it hard to guess. So options I have? Its in need of an alignment, should I just take it to be done, and let them know there is something from that area, and if they would check in out.

    I will be lowering the back to make it sit level, maybe that will help it out a bit.
    - Waiting for an lq9 swap - Super 40 center in dual out - battery swap to spare tire location - exhaust turndown -

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    Ball joints SUCK to replace on these. Get a price for a new control arm if the ball joint is making noise just to see the price difference. Might not be worth the hassle to replace just the joint. Plus, the joints are press fit and the arm can get hairline cracks or oversized joint bore if they're pressed in and out too many times or incorrectly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    322
    Yeah. I can see how it'd be cheaper to just buy the control arm. That can be a weekend job for a diyer like me?

    Time to buy a floor jack.. and stands..

    Just for s-n-g's can I use the control arms from the 1500hd (not 4wd of course), or is there even any sense in using them? Thinking they might be better.
    Last edited by mnc2fan; 06-05-2009 at 03:45 PM.
    - Waiting for an lq9 swap - Super 40 center in dual out - battery swap to spare tire location - exhaust turndown -

    2

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Anthony, Indiana
    Posts
    1,592
    I would also check your wheel bearing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    wichita falls, tx
    Posts
    3,067
    top ball joints are east to change...lowers are not!
    ↓↓↓click pic to go to garage↓↓↓

    408, WCCHL92s, nelson tune,4L80e 3600 Circle D,
    Intro Radicalli's

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    322
    I'm going to be doing something soon. How can you tell what needs to be replaced?
    - Waiting for an lq9 swap - Super 40 center in dual out - battery swap to spare tire location - exhaust turndown -

    2

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Richardson
    Posts
    151
    Have u tried to grease the ball joints, maybe just dry...?
    2000 sil.ext. 5.3 / Lingenfelter Ls1 cam / LS1 valves / Ported / Milled / 35lb injectors / 80mm tb / E-fans / cold air intake / Pacesetter Cer LT's w/3"ory/ JET-DST / MSD Twister / Corvette Servo / 3.73's / 125 N2O / no cats / Flowmaster exhaust / level rear drop / Rear sway bar / SS wheels / 285/50R20 Goodyears / 05 Tail lites

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    322
    Haven't touched it yet. But no they haven't been greased.. excellence thought.
    - Waiting for an lq9 swap - Super 40 center in dual out - battery swap to spare tire location - exhaust turndown -

    2

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    wichita falls, tx
    Posts
    3,067
    well every boot on the front of my truck is ripped/torn/cracked....mine needs some serious TLC in the front suspension
    ↓↓↓click pic to go to garage↓↓↓

    408, WCCHL92s, nelson tune,4L80e 3600 Circle D,
    Intro Radicalli's

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Plainfield, IL
    Posts
    2,036
    Jack up the truck. If it moves 12 and 6, ball joints. If it moves 3 and 9 it's tie rods. If it moves both, or in/out....wheel assembly.

    If not, grease it all up, hopefully it shuts up lol
    blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum

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