Something Different

[Justin_Inc]

I know about the Fairmont, that's pretty cool.
I've seen a few other dyno posts showing 600+hp.

I still say 12-14psi, cam and 5.3L (like oringally posted above) will not get 650whp, there has to be more to it. I didn't say the block won't hold it, I said a few will make it hold, but generally speaking, when someone asks and they are told to make an "easy" 650hp, that is not possible.
Just so it's clear, 12-14psi, cam, with stock 5.3L, will not make 650whp, that much pressure doesn't equal that much power.

I agree, But i dont remember saying anything along the lines of 'put XX amount of boost to make XXX amount of power'. Every combo is different, its just a matter of getting the combo tuned and making it work.

It may not be as easy as some make it out to seem (myself included) but its still alot easier than some may think but it does take some playing around.

[farmtruc]

I agree, But i dont remember saying anything along the lines of 'put XX amount of boost to make XXX amount of power'. Every combo is different, its just a matter of getting the combo tuned and making it work.

It may not be as easy as some make it out to seem (myself included) but its still alot easier than some may think but it does take some playing around.

I know you didn't say 12-14psi, I was taking that quote from the original poster and assuming any reply was taking into consideration that he'd be running 14psi through his engine.

Red might be right though, push 25psi through it and it'll make it lol.

I didn't mean to take/reply to you so literally,

later,
allen

[CASPER-08]

Not to start a flame, but where are you guys getting 650hp from a 5.3L from?
I'm sure there are 1 or 2 in existence, but come on, 10psi on a 5.3L is about 400hp, add a cam and you're at 450hp, go ahead and add another 5psi, you'll probably hit over 500hp, but not much, that's still close to 150hp shy.

You might be able to do it with a 6L and in a car, for example, twin turbo APS on a '06 GTO, 601hp with 10psi, but that's close to blowing the engine.

The stock rods won't hold 650whp for long, you'll get away with it for a while, but 650whp is a lot of damn hp, something a stock 5.3L just won't handle.

I just don't want to inflate his bubble and have him blow something, that's never fun .

I did it with my 5.3 and i know im way over 650hp to the wheels and all it took was a T76GTS,Custom cam, pi stall and built tranny and ofcourse fuel system and 14 psi got me 656rwhp on a mustang dyno. i'm at 18 psi now

[Show&Go]

I am going to haft to go back to the OP and ask a question. How much do you drive your truck? And how much money do you have saved up IF something goes wrong? Everyone that has posted knows what they are taking about. It CAN be done. But I would say maybe 1 out of 20 can do it without blowin there motor. If you drive it everyday you may want to keep it around 500 for a goal.
If you put down 500 you will be pretty happy. Also note the main people that have posted here do ALL their own work and I know two work at or own their own shop. So to them. Yes its all possible. Coming from me who has to get people to help me on the labor (cause im not a car master) and someone that has limited funds I try to stick on the "safe to drive to " theory. If I cant take off a state away in my truck I wont do it.

[SS Killer]

I should have mentioned, the only thing stock about the bottom end would possibly be the crank; rods and pistons would be forged with heavy-duty bearings and ARP's holding it all together. I'm also going to stud everything and use a copper gasket+nasty goop+rings and grooves technique I've seen used on twin-turbo motors running 35psi+.

The 650RWHP figure shouldn't be too incredibly high; 785BHP (using 17% loss) would be 2.40HP per ci. Sure it might be completely unheard of in a NA car or truck (though 3HP per ci has been done) but for an FI motor it shouldn't be too hard to reach.

I was making 300RWHP through a slipping tranny and regular 87 fuel. I haven't dyno'd since I replaced the transimission but saying I don't gain any that means I need to pick up 350 more HP to meet my goal.

How much PSI could I make with a 2.8L Bell blowing into a 5.3L? I'm not all to familiar with supercharger theory yet.

[Show&Go]

I should have mentioned, the only thing stock about the bottom end would possibly be the crank; rods and pistons would be forged with heavy-duty bearings and ARP's holding it all together. I'm also going to stud everything and use a copper gasket+nasty goop+rings and grooves technique I've seen used on twin-turbo motors running 35psi+.


How much PSI could I make with a 2.8L Bell blowing into a 5.3L? I'm not all to familiar with supercharger theory yet.

With a built bottom end it should hold up decently well. The guys that have been posted can tell you excatly

As for the supercharger I dont know. but GENERALLY speaking the turbo systems are more effecent in making power and no where near the parasitic loss. It would probably be a better idea. And more cost effective. No pulleys to buy when you are ready to start pushing the charger harder. Just up the boost on a turbo and rock out.

[SS Killer]

I am going to haft to go back to the OP and ask a question. How much do you drive your truck? And how much money do you have saved up IF something goes wrong? Everyone that has posted knows what they are taking about. It CAN be done. But I would say maybe 1 out of 20 can do it without blowin there motor. If you drive it everyday you may want to keep it around 500 for a goal.
If you put down 500 you will be pretty happy. Also note the main people that have posted here do ALL their own work and I know two work at or own their own shop. So to them. Yes its all possible. Coming from me who has to get people to help me on the labor (cause im not a car master) and someone that has limited funds I try to stick on the "safe to drive to " theory. If I cant take off a state away in my truck I wont do it.

I drive it when I want. It's a toy that see light duty driving when I want to cruise.

If it breaks, I can park it if I have to, I drive a 4 banger to work.

I'm no car master but I've done a lot of the work to my truck myself and that's the plan with this project. After the first of the year I'm going to track down a 5.3L with a good solid block and crank and go from there. it will be somewhat of a learning experience since I've never cracked open the bottom end of an LS motor before, but I look forward to it.

My goal is to make this truck (and whoever is in the passenger seat) scream. I've got lofty goals but I'll get there someday.

[ducky]

You should look into the TVS' they make damn good power and cool really well. Allen as well as others have installed these kits on, and they seem to be the favorite so far

[Show&Go]

I drive it when I want. It's a toy that see light duty driving when I want to cruise.

If it breaks, I can park it if I have to, I drive a 4 banger to work.

I'm no car master but I've done a lot of the work to my truck myself and that's the plan with this project. After the first of the year I'm going to track down a 5.3L with a good solid block and crank and go from there. it will be somewhat of a learning experience since I've never cracked open the bottom end of an LS motor before, but I look forward to it.

My goal is to make this truck (and whoever is in the passenger seat) scream. I've got lofty goals but I'll get there someday.

If you have something to drive daily I say go for it. Just expect it to break. SOMEWHERE! I only have a lil over 300 on the ground and I poped my rearend like it was made of paper. A 11 second truck will make someone screm if they arent use to speed. Its all depending on who you got with you. I can make a honda driver freak out with what I have. And 11s are possible with around 450 on the ground. CASPER08s ride is in the 10s with the HP you are looking for. Just remember to support the kind of power you want the engine will NO where near be the least of your problems. Id advise swapping to a built 80e and a 14bolt rearend from a VHO asap.

[ff_jeff]

I should have mentioned, the only thing stock about the bottom end would possibly be the crank; rods and pistons would be forged with heavy-duty bearings and ARP's holding it all together. I'm also going to stud everything and use a copper gasket+nasty goop+rings and grooves technique I've seen used on twin-turbo motors running 35psi+.

The 650RWHP figure shouldn't be too incredibly high; 785BHP (using 17% loss) would be 2.40HP per ci. Sure it might be completely unheard of in a NA car or truck (though 3HP per ci has been done) but for an FI motor it shouldn't be too hard to reach.

I was making 300RWHP through a slipping tranny and regular 87 fuel. I haven't dynoed since I replaced the transimission but saying I don't gain any that means I need to pick up 350 more HP to meet my goal.

How much PSI could I make with a 2.8L Bell blowing into a 5.3L? I'm not all to familiar with supercharger theory yet.

ok, first thing, who made 3hp per cube? Your goals would put you at 2.5hp per cube. figure 20-22% loss
Second thing. As Allen stated, your not going to get there on a 5.3 with 15psi.
250bwhp and a badass set of heads and a FI cam with a blower will get you probably 500whp+/- with meth. Maybe add a 50-75shot of spray for 575whp.

You can get 650whp... but I would suggest a built bottom end, Best heads and cam you can find... and youll need a 250shot of spray. at least.