What is a fix like this likely to cost me???
What is a fix like this likely to cost me???
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
I have the same problem with my fuel gauge. But if i add a cluster with a trans temp gauge is there anything else that needs to be done in order for the trans temp gauge to work?Originally Posted by SCIV
Step 1. crus at it.
Step 2. get a hammer.
Step 3. torch it.
There was a recall on 03-06? Not sure of what yr it ended. But I know the 03 ones got recalled for the needles not working.
A good idea is to never let your gas go below 1/4 a tank. The gas will keep the sending unit and pump cool and wont burn out. I always fill up after 1/2 a tank anyways lol. Sending units are like 300 bux.
Ok so $300 gets the parts. How difficult is it to do this all myself? If I were to just change clusters they would be just a straight swap correct just unplug and replug? Or is it more complicated?
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
There was no recall quite like this. There was a recall on the fuel level senders in 2000-2001 Suburbans, Tahoes, Yukons, and Yukon XL. The new parts have a different connector at the tank. No pick-up were recalled.
The 2003-2004 only had (not a recall) a special policy that covered the instrument cluster replacement for up to 7 years or 70K miles for needles sticking or gauges inoperative.
A sender can range from $150 to $400 depending on make and model. You can also replace the entire module (pump and all) for more money (parts range from $400 to $650).
Prices I quotes are GM list....there are ways to save some money.
To replace the sender, the tank needs to be dropped or the bed removed/tilted. There's a good chance the wiring plug will have to changed too just like the recall I mentioned above even though picks ups weren't recalled.
The IPC is another issue. I'm not sure how people do this swap as the operating software and odometer needs programmed via TIS2000 by the dealer for proper operation. Not sure what years and models are compatible but I know the software architecture changed in 2003.
Wow...I would not mess with the cluster. I would just replace the sending units. For the fuel, I would replace the whole unit Travis--considering the age and miles of you truck--its one of those things like--"while you are in there, might as well do all of it" kinda thing. Chances are that if you go in there and replace just the sending unit, 2 months will pass to when the pump needs to be replaced... And speaking of which--depending on your future mods, you might wanna go ahead and put in a Walbro fuel pump to replace the stocker. And the oil sending unit is a simple process--just disconnect the wiring, use the special socket to unscrew the sending unit--put the new one on and plug in the wiring.
As for the gauges, you can just get an Escalade style stick-on plate...it does not involve taking the entire cluster out.
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
Yeah that sounds about right. A while back now, like 5-6 months, I was looking to get an entire replacement panel from GM but they wanted like $300 just for the panel and who knows if it would fix the problem...
Im going to start looking around for the best prices on all of these things that Im gonna need. I think that Im just going to wait to do it until I do the swap. That is unless something happens and it NEEDS to be done...Ive been driving with it like this for too long to remember...
Oh another thing...I was thinking about removing my fuel tank and putting it where the spare is and putting the spare on a rack in the bed...how would that effect all of this? I was going to get like a 32 gallon or 22 gallon one from summit. Just an option I was looking into for a while.
Last edited by bangbangskeetskeet; 10-14-2008 at 09:52 PM.
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
Why in the fvck would you mess with the gas tank??? I would leave it be...
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
Not to thread jack, but this directly relates and could be of importance, or it could be a total noob question!
On most vehicles the odometer is directly tied to the instrument panel (obviously this is where its located on our trucks too...) swapping the panels for a new one, or one from another vehicle would knock the odometer off (to 0 for a new one or to whatever the new panel has on it) correct?
This would be a huge issue for me...though I have no plans on selling my truck anytime soon, Id imagine it would absolutly kill any warrantee you have left (not being able to tell actual mileage) and also severly hurt resale to any educated buyer....
Or can this swap be done and maintain the odometer reading?
03 Silverado ECSB - SOLD
06 CCSB Duramax - 12 second tow pig
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