Exhaust Smoking

[factorb]

Mileage hasn't dropped any, getting almost 14 on the highway. Just thought that since it doesn't do it all the time that it might be something simple. I have a new fuel pump on it, run fuel injector cleaner thru it every oil change, and get gas at a shell station in town. I think there is a gremblin in the motor.

[txarkitekt]

Naw, not a gremlin--just a little puff of smoke is nothing to worry about really... It might be that your intake is hella dirty. You know that your valve coveres breathe oil vapors into the intake, right? And that the EGR dumps uncirculated exhaust fumes back into the intake as well??? Just for grins, take the take tube off, open the butterfly on the TB, and swab the inside of the intake with a pipe cleaner or with a screw driver with a small rag on it. I can guarantee you that it will be black as soot when you pull it out. A deep intake cleaning session may be on the books for you... The LS motors are known to have a good amount of carbon build up on the topside of the valves (due to the EGR and valve cover breathers). A good valve cleaning wouldn't hurt either...

[mean05]

Im Gonna Go With Valve Seals On This One...usually Will Do The Once They Get Worn Out....does It Smoke Under Wot...if So Then I Will Definately Go With The Seals

[ff_jeff]

Sounds like valve seals... do a cam swap and change the seals and gaskets while your at it.

Im Gonna Go With Valve Seals On This One...usually Will Do The Once They Get Worn Out....does It Smoke Under Wot...if So Then I Will Definately Go With The Seals

I think so as well. No big deal. Just a reason to swap out the cam for a better one. Get some comp springs, and buy some seals, locks, retainers, and guides just to be safe.

[factorb]

Thanks guys for all the info. Pulled my camper again over the fourth and again puffed smoke but not as bad, but after I unhooked and started it back up she didn't want to idle. Idles at about 3 to 4 hundred rpm and was rough. Gave it some gas and moved it and the idle went back to normal. How big of a job is it to change out the seals?

[txarkitekt]

Changing valve seals is quite easy--pull off plug wires from coil packs and take off coil pack bracket; unbolt the 4 (8mm) bolts that hold down the valve cover; Unbolt rocker bolts (8mm); remove rockers and rocker cradle; remove pushrods; use an LS1 style valve spring compression tool to compress and remove valve stem locks; remove valve; remove valve stem. Replace in reverse order. Make sure to retorque rockers down to 22 ft.lb. Once you have tightened them down, hand turn the crank about 10 times. Retorque rockers to 22 ft.lb. again. The job is very easy, but takes a long time to compress each spring. I'd say about an hour per side...

[ff_jeff]

Changing valve seals is quite easy--pull off plug wires from coil packs and take off coil pack bracket; unbolt the 4 (8mm) bolts that hold down the valve cover; Unbolt rocker bolts (8mm); remove rockers and rocker cradle; remove pushrods; use an LS1 style valve spring compression tool to compress and remove valve stem locks; remove valve; remove valve stem. Replace in reverse order. Make sure to retorque rockers down to 22 ft.lb. Once you have tightened them down, hand turn the crank about 10 times. Retorque rockers to 22 ft.lb. again. The job is very easy, but takes a long time to compress each spring. I'd say about an hour per side...

How would you remove the valve with the head still on?

[ducky]

How would you remove the valve with the head still on?

Trust me jeff.. He knows.

[txarkitekt]

How would you remove the valve with the head still on?

JACKASS--he is talking about changing the VALVE SEALS. NOT THE VALVE...douche nozzle. It would GREATLY benefit you to read the ENTIRE post before saying something stupid.

Love ya Jeff!

[txarkitekt]

And David....wait, nevermind. I am not going to even waste my time on you... It's too easy...