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Thread: Suggestions/Ideas on hooking

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBTBSS View Post
    20 gal easy. or put it in the bed and keep the tire too.
    How much would the ass end drop down with it dead center? Like just for cruising?
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  2. #12
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    Get rid of the tricycle tires and put some 305+ on the back.
    Gone, but not forgotten!

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCIV View Post
    Get rid of the tricycle tires and put some 305+ on the back.
    How tall are 305+ on my 16's? Diameter wise?
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  4. #14
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    i have bought shocks from these guys and they are the best for dropped trucks. I love them on my wifes Colorado. Not that it needs to hook like yours but they
    are really good shocks.

    Doetsch Shocks and Suspension Lift and Lowering Kits
    Name: Mark,
    God created turbo lag so nitrous trucks could have a chance.


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post274877

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckysbht View Post
    How much would the ass end drop down with it dead center? Like just for cruising?
    Like Red said, you'd move more weight over to the back/right side of your truck. with a full tank you might sit 1/2 an inch lower in the back but that all depends on how soft it is back there now? just put a stiffer shock back there but, I'd be willing to bet the angle of your shocks right now(because of how low you are) are angled so bad they aren't doing any good anyways. Your basically riding on your leaf springs and that's it. shock angle from mount to mount is very important.
    Last edited by PurpleMinivan; 05-07-2008 at 12:05 AM.
    30' Ford Model A Tudor Sedan - Custom chassis - Big bore LS2 - twin B76's - Glide - 9" w/ 3.07 gears - 30" DR tire - 2k lbs cruiser

  6. #16
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    You need to get as much weight off the front as possible and any needed weight (battery, etc.) moved to the rear.
    Weight transfer is the biggest thing to keeping traction, at launch its mainly just a tire and weight transfer issue, BUT once your full boost hits you are already moving so you dont have the instant transfer that will plant the tires. At that point its really a suspension game, you need that rear axle wanting to push its self into the ground.

    what does your rear suspension consist of?? Does the drop use new springs or is it just drop brackets?? Usually drop springs are softer which will cause more axle wrap, axle wrap=loss of traction.

    Now if you just have a slight traction problem im sure moving some weight around and a different shock setup will help but in your situation IMHO its suspension.
    01' 2500HD 4X4
    6.0L 4l80E
    stock....
    -Chris

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBTBSS View Post
    Like Red said, you'd move more weight over to the back/right side of your truck. with a full tank you might sit 1/2 lower in the back but that all depends on how soft it is back there now? just put a stiffer shock back there but, I'd be willing to bet the angle of your shocks right now(because of how low you are) are angled so bad they aren't doing any good anyways. Your basically riding on your leaf springs and that's it. shock angle from mount to mount is very important.
    How can I correct the angle of the shock? Because you are right, they are at a good angle in the back.
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  8. #18
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    LOL...when I read the title "Ideas on hooking," the first thing that came to mind was to say, "Ask Kurt's mom." But then I quickly realized you were talking about traction issues, not whoring abilities.

    Anyway, since Caltracs are out of the question, what about some long bars? I know that they do hang pretty low, and considering your drop, is it worth it?

    Yeah, do the battery in back, fill you tank FULL of gas before you get to the strip, get a tight (Yank) 3200 stall, and get the slicks really warm before you launch. Short of tubbing the rear end, doing a Ford 9", and 4-linking it--that is all you can really do with your current suspension setup...

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckysbht View Post
    How can I correct the angle of the shock? Because you are right, they are at a good angle in the back.
    Relocate the upper and lower shock mounts.
    30' Ford Model A Tudor Sedan - Custom chassis - Big bore LS2 - twin B76's - Glide - 9" w/ 3.07 gears - 30" DR tire - 2k lbs cruiser

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    LOL...when I read the title "Ideas on hooking," the first thing that came to mind was to say, "Ask Kurt's mom." But then I quickly realized you were talking about traction issues, not whoring abilities.

    Anyway, since Caltracs are out of the question, what about some long bars? I know that they do hang pretty low, and considering your drop, is it worth it?

    Yeah, do the battery in back, fill you tank FULL of gas before you get to the strip, get a tight (Yank) 3200 stall, and get the slicks really warm before you launch. Short of tubbing the rear end, doing a Ford 9", and 4-linking it--that is all you can really do with your current suspension setup...
    its not that caltracs are out of the question, I just wanna do the easy stuff first
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

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