Originally posted by GMCwantsLS1@May 8 2003, 08:06 PM
If the N20 quits no biggie just turns off, no boom?
werd. the motor will just go overly rich and bog out and stall. imo, if your motor has no additions to it such as heads/cam or forced induction, then the dry kit is the best bet. otoh, if you are running forced induction or heads/cam, then your fuel injectors will most likely be maxed and will be better off running a wet system which stems fuel from the fuel line and routes it via another solenoid into your intake without affecting your injectors at all. as far as the fuel solenoid failing, allowing only n20 to spray on a wet system--this problem is covered by using the correct safety equipment---->fuel pressure safety switch (fpss). what the fpss does is detect any fuel pressure drop below minimum tolerances that triggers it to automatically shut off nitrous flow to the engine, prohibiting engine damage. the only other risk is if the n20 solenoid gets stuck open, then you've got a problem. but this risk is just as possible with a dry system as it is with a wet. the only step i'm aware of to safegaurd against this is to use nitrous express (nx) solenoids, which are arguably the best solenoids out there to use.
1989 GMC 1500 f/s stepside reg. cab--4.10's w/Eaton posi--Swapped in LT1--T56 w/SPEC clutch--LT4 Hotcam Kit--Lt4 km--Vented opti conv.--Meziere h2o pump--Taylor over-the-valve-cover wires--K&N CAI--Dynomax coated mid- length headers--True dual Flowmaster 40's no cats--Pcmforless programming
323rwhp/332rwt
13.5 @ 98 1.9 60' (with old 700r4 and ET Streets)
1998 Z28 A4--stock